Maxwell 1000 & 1500 Windlass (VW, VWC, VWLP, VWCLP) — Manual

Location

• Clear deck between windlass and bow roller; bow roller with a central (vertical) groove for the chain size; chain guide if needed so the chain cannot run against the deckplate.
• Self-launching anchor that fits the bow roller; swivel between anchor and chain; at least three links of chain exposed with the anchor docked.
• Chain outlet ideally directly over the locker, with at least 300mm (1ft) clear fall; the chain must gravity feed unaided (heavy wall flexible pipe, bell mouth if needed). Fasten the end of the chain to the boat.
• “UP” is clockwise looking down. Point the deckplate at the incoming chain with its left hand side parallel to it for maximum chainwheel engagement.
• Deck and under-deck pad (not supplied) must carry the loads; spread the load widely. Use a plinth or mounting pad on a sloping, curved or uneven deck.
• Horizontal (bulwark) installation, mainly VW: worm on the lower side of the gearbox for lubrication and stripper at the lowest end of the deckplate.
• Aluminium boats: non-conductive gasket, stud insulators and fibre washers (not supplied), and insulate anchor, chain and locker from the hull. The motor is isolated earth: no separate earth needed.
• Chain stopper between windlass and bow roller, clear of the anchor stock, with no deflection of the chain.

Fitting

1. Grease the shaft and bronze clutch cones during assembly (see the greasing page). Mark out with the deck cutout drawing; on GRP run the drill in reverse first, then cut the spacer tube and chain pipe holes with hole saws. Seal GRP or wood edges with epoxy.
2. Remove the gearbox from the spacer tube (undo the locknut). Gearbox horizontal: oil half way up the sight glass; top up with SAE 90 (Shell Omala 320, Castrol Alpha SP320 or equivalent) – do not over fill.
3. Seal to the deck with the supplied gasket; fasten with the nuts and washers, tightening progressively and evenly by hand – no power tools, do not over tighten.
4. Grease shaft and spacer tube, fit the gearbox/motor with the motor away from the incoming chain, hand-tighten the plastic locknut. If the unit may tilt, put the gearbox drainage slot at the lowest point.
5. Rotate the shaft (or use the crank handle) to align the keyways, insert the key and fit the quick-release clip with the eyelets down and away from the keyway.
6. Motor cables: hold the lower nut while tightening the upper nut.
7. Chainwheel: remove the cap (pen knife), screw and retaining washer, clutch nut, drum (not on low profile) and upper cone; remove the stripper (two screws). Grease both clutch faces, fit the chainwheel with the two-hole side up and reassemble in reverse.
8. Motor: align the roll pin with the slot in the worm and fit with the motor bolt kit.
9. Boat builders: for deck-cargo delivery spray the topworks with CRC 3097 “long life” and wrap in plastic film and tape (sulphur from ship exhaust damages chrome and stainless).

Anchoring

• Do not reverse direction until the windlass has stopped. The breaker protects against over-current and short circuit, not heat build-up from prolonged use: let the motor cool. Isolator off when not in use.
• Lowering / raising: engine(s) running to charge; tighten the clutch nut clockwise with the clutch lever only enough to easily pull up the anchor, REMOVE THE LEVER, then use the remote toggle or footswitch. Over-tightening can damage the motor when docking. Motor up to the anchor; bring the last metre (3') in very slowly.
• Adjust the clutch so it slips slightly when docking the anchor. Pay out at least three times the depth; secure the chain on a chain stopper – do not anchor off the windlass.
• Free fall: check the chain runs freely over the roller, disengage the pawl and/or stopper, then, standing clear, slowly loosen the clutch nut anticlockwise; tighten clockwise to control the descent. Never let the chainwheel free wheel. Reset the clutch and stow the lever.
• Manual recovery: tie off the chain, loosen the clutch anticlockwise with the crank handle, engage the pawl and/or stopper, strip the windlass until the top of the chainwheel shows, put the clutch lever spigot in the chainwheel hole and lever on the shaft. Always re-engage the pawl or stopper before releasing pressure.

Warping Drum

1. The vertical capstan works independently of the chainwheel (mooring and docking lines, a second anchor); a footswitch is highly recommended.
2. Secure the anchor with the pawl and/or chain stopper.
3. Turn the clutch nut anticlockwise with the lever until rotation stops: the chainwheel stays stationary.
4. Three turns clockwise on the drum, hold the tail, press “Up”. More tail load hauls faster, less load slower; extra turns give more grip.
5. Do not operate the footswitch while adding turns, keep fingers clear, and never put on so many turns that easing the tail will not let the rope slip.

Service

• Gearbox oil: 70-80ml (2.4 – 2.7 fl oz), API GL-4 or lower (low sulphur) gear oil, weight between 90 & 110.
• Shaft, bearing and clutch surfaces: marine grease, lithium or lithium complex, NLGI No.1 to No.3. Grease the motor face, gearbox locating lugs, spacer tube, gearbox thread, shaft and clutch cone faces; coat all under-deck components with CRC 3097 or equivalent – failure to do so voids the warranty.
• Topworks: wash with fresh water; clean with a kerosene-damp cloth and spray CRC3097 “Long Life” (or CRC6-66 / WD40). Mild abrasive polish restores bronze – never on chrome. Make sure the keys are properly seated on reassembly.
• Motor: spray motor and connections with CRC Soft Seal; remove by undoing two bolts. Blow out carbon dust, replace worn brushes (P100807 12 Volt, P100808 24 Volt, P100810 48 Volt), remove rust and repaint; roll pin SP0530 is a press fit in the drive shaft. Never wrap the motor in grease cloth.

Troubleshooting

• Does not operate: breaker/isolator “On”; connections at remote panel, footswitches, breaker/isolator, reversing solenoid and motor; battery condition; listen for the solenoid click.
• Motor runs, chainwheel does not rotate: clutch nut too loose (slipping); chain jammed in the chainwheel (reverse to free it); key between shaft and gearbox missing; rough running or excessive noise may mean gearbox damage; check the motor drive pin by unbolting the motor.