Maxwell HRC10 Horizontal Windlass — Owner's Manual

Location & Fitting

1. In the box: clutch handle (bi-square handle), deckplate gasket, deck cut-out details (rear of manual), bi-square to 1/2" square adaptor, small parts, windlass.
2. Plan the location: rode feeds correctly, flat deck (plinth if not), avoid bulkheads, wiring and piping, strong enough mounting area, at least 200mm (8") unobstructed fall into the locker from the lowest part of the windlass, clear run from bow roller to chainwheel, room to work the clutch handle.
3. Use the deck cut-out template (part no. 7379, in the PDF): check the scale, align the gypsy with the bow roller and cut the holes in order A to C.
4. Seal hole edges with epoxy (not for steel or aluminium), lower the deckplate into place and tighten the nuts progressively and evenly – firm, not over-tight, no power tools.
5. If you use a sealant, avoid permanent adhesive: use a non-acid cure flexible sealant.

Electrical

• Wiring by qualified technicians to USCG, ABYC, NMMA, CE requirements. A circuit breaker/isolator and an up/down control switch are required.
• Breaker/isolator no further than 1.8 m (6 ft) from the battery, accessible and dry. Solenoid pack in a dry area close to the windlass, not in the chain locker.
• Footswitch approximately 500 mm (20") from the windlass, below-deck part dry, arrow showing the direction; up/down switch where the operator can see the windlass.
• Hold the lower motor nut (A1) while tightening the upper nut (B1). Swapping F1 and F2, or connections 1 and 3 on the solenoid box, reverses rotation: check it before fitting chain or rope.
• Ring terminals and sleeved terminations; once tested, seal terminals with CRC2403 “plasti-coat”, CRC3013 “soft seal” or CRC2409 “clear urethane”.
• HRC10-8 and HRC10-10 use a series wound motor; the control circuit uses a manually resettable 3 Amp breaker.

Cable length is the total run battery → windlass → battery; sizes keep voltage drop under 10% (copper, 90° C insulation). The HRC10-10 rows are printed with non-standard sizes and blank (0) cells for the longer runs: confirm with us before buying cable for an HRC10-10.

Anchoring

• Lowering: make sure the pawl is disengaged, press down on the up/down switch (or Down footswitch), watch the rode and tie off on a chain stopper, snubber or cleat.
• Raising: tighten the clutches with the clutch handle (clockwise) only enough to pull up the anchor – over-tightening can damage the motor when docking the anchor – remove the handle, press up, motor up to the anchor and bring in the last meter (3') slowly.
• Free fall: loosen the clutch nut slowly anticlockwise; turning it clockwise controls the rate of descent. Never let free fall go out of control.
• Manual recovery: engage the pawl, loosen the clutch anticlockwise, then fit the handle in the outer bi-square of the chainwheel and turn clockwise to pull in the line.

Safety

• Your windlass must have a working load limit at least three times the combined weight of anchor and rope/chain; the anchor must fit the bow roller and be self-launching.
• Tie the bitter end to a secure fixture in the locker. Never operate from a remote station without a clear view of the windlass.
• Never use the windlass as a mooring point, to pull the boat up to the anchor, to break out a fouled anchor or to haul a person up a mast: use cleats, bollards and the engine.
• Secure the anchor when under way; switch the breaker/isolator off when the windlass is not in use. Never reverse before the windlass has stopped.

Capstan Drum (Rope Warping)

1. The drum works independently of the chainwheel, for mooring lines or a second anchor; a footswitch is highly recommended.
2. Make sure the anchor is secured.
3. Turn the clutch nut anticlockwise until rotation stops so the chainwheel stays still.
4. Wind up to three turns clockwise on the drum, keep a light tailing pull and start with the UP footswitch.
5. Increase the pull and tail hand over hand; reduce pull to slip the rope; to hold, stop the windlass while keeping pull on the rope.

Schedule

• Gearbox oil: 70 – 80ml (2.4 – 2.7 fl oz), 1/2 to full on the sight glass; API GL-4 or lower (low sulphur), 90 to 110 weight.
• Main shaft, bearing and clutch surfaces: lithium complex grease, NLGI No.1 to No.3.
• Seat the keys properly on reassembly; never wrap the motor in grease cloth.

Troubleshooting

• Does not operate: breaker/isolator on; connections at up/down switch, footswitches, breaker, reversing solenoid and motor; battery condition; solenoid clicks when activated.
• Motor runs, chainwheel does not turn: clutch nut too loose; chainwheel jammed (reverse to free it); rough running or excessive noise means the gears may be damaged.
• Rope does not retrieve or pay out: wrong rope size/type; fouled rope or anchor; twists or knots in the chain pipe; worn or stiff rope (wash in fresh water with fabric softener); too much rope in the locker; worn splice; rough deck hole; twisting chain (fit a swivel).
• Runs slowly: power cable too small, low battery voltage, worn motor brushes.