Maxwell RC12 & VW12 Windlass — Owner's Manual

Location & Fitting

1. In the box: clutch handle, emergency retrieval handle, reversing solenoid (12V/24V; not with hydraulic windlasses), deckplate gasket (RC12 only), deck cut-out details, motor bolt kit, small parts, windlass.
2. Plan the location: rode feeds correctly, flat deck (plinth if not), avoid bulkheads, wiring and piping, strong enough mounting area, at least 200mm (8") unobstructed fall into the locker. The rode must not foul the motor and needs a clear run from roller to chainwheel; point the deckplate towards the incoming rode; allow room for the clutch handle.
3. Horizontal installation on a vertical bulkhead: position motor and gearbox so the drive shaft is at least partially covered with oil.
4. Strip the topworks first: cap, retaining screw and washer, clutch nut, washer, drum and key (capstan), upper clutch cone and key, stripper screw, chainwheel assembly with stripper and Belleville washer, the other Belleville washer, lower clutch cone, key and retaining clips, then the deckplate.
5. Deck cut-out templates in the manual: RC12 CW part no. 7516, RC12 ACW 7547, VW12 CW 9356, VW12 ACW 9359. They are marked NOT TO SCALE: mark out from the printed dimensions and check them before cutting holes A to D.
6. Seal hole edges with epoxy (not for steel or aluminium), use the gasket supplied (insulate aluminium or steel decks with the plastic gasket), lower the deckplate in and tighten the nuts progressively and evenly; no power tools.
7. From below, slide the drive assembly mainshaft up through the deckplate without damaging the deck bearing, then bolt deckplate and spacer tube together from above with the M10 hex screws, evenly to 35-40 Nm (25-30 ft lb).
8. Fit the two retaining clips in the upper groove (a little grease holds them), coat mainshaft and keyway with anti-seize, fit the key and the lower clutch cone, grease its conical face with lithium marine grease, then refit the topworks in reverse order.

Notes & Electrical

• Apply anti-corrosive paste to main shaft, drive key, flanges and threads, and to the inside wall of the spacer tube.
• Keep the gearbox drain slots clear so water cannot collect round the seals. In a ‘dry’ location (e.g. forward berth) extra measures against leaks are needed.
• On aluminium decks fully insulate windlass, studs, nuts, washers and chain; stainless fasteners must also be insulated.
• Wiring by qualified technicians to USCG, ABYC, NMMA, CE requirements; breaker/isolator required, within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the battery; solenoid pack dry and close to the windlass, not in the locker.
• Footswitch about 500 mm (20") from the windlass; up/down switch with a view of the windlass. Hold the lower motor nut (A1) while tightening the upper (B1).
• RC12/VW12 use a series wound motor; swapping F1 and F2, or connections 1 and 3 on the solenoid box, reverses rotation.

Cable length is the total run battery → windlass → battery; sizes keep voltage drop under 10% (copper, 90° C insulation).

Anchoring

• Lowering / raising: tighten the clutches clockwise with the clutch handle only enough to pull up the anchor (over-tightening can damage the motor when docking), remove the handle and use the up/down switch or footswitches. Tie off on a chain stopper, snubber or cleat; motor up to the anchor and bring in the last meter (3') slowly.
• Free fall: loosen the clutch nut slowly anticlockwise; turning clockwise controls the descent. Never let it run out of control.
• Set the clutch to slip slightly when docking the anchor; never use the windlass to hold the anchor in the roller.
• The deckplate pawl is for manual recovery only, never for anchoring loads; disengage it before powering the windlass.
• Start the engine before operating; never reverse before the windlass stops.

Emergency Retrieval & Capstan

Raising the anchor manually

1. Clamp the rode so it cannot pay out when the clutch is released; loosen the clutch anticlockwise.
2. Remove cap, washer, screw and clutch nut (capstan, washer and key on capstan versions) and fit the emergency handle on the shaft (on low profile, tighten it with the clutch handle).
3. Make sure the handle pawl engages the upper chainwheel, engage the deckplate pawl to stop free fall, release the rode and work the lever.
4. Tie off the rode once the anchor is up, remove the emergency handle and refit the topworks.

Hauling with the capstan

1. Secure the anchor; turn the clutch nut anticlockwise until rotation stops so the chainwheel stays still.
2. Up to three turns clockwise on the drum, light tailing pull, start with the UP footswitch; increase pull and tail hand over hand.
3. Reduce pull to slip; to hold, stop while keeping pull on the rope. Never put on so many turns that easing the tail will not let the rope slip.

Schedule

• Gearbox oil: 330ml (10.14 fl oz), API GL-4 or lower (low sulphur), 90 to 110 weight.
• Main shaft, bearing and clutch surfaces: lithium complex grease, NLGI No.1 to No.3. Seat the keys properly on reassembly; never wrap the motor in grease cloth.

Troubleshooting

• Does not operate: breaker/isolator on; connections at switches, breaker, reversing solenoid and motor; battery condition; solenoid clicks.
• Motor runs, chainwheel does not turn: clutch nut too loose; chainwheel jammed (reverse to free); shaft-gearbox key missing; rough running or noise means gearbox damage; check the motor drive pin.
• Rope does not retrieve or pay out: wrong rope; fouled rope or anchor; twists in the chain pipe; worn or stiff rope; too much rope in the locker; worn splice; rough deck hole; twisting chain (fit a swivel).
• Runs slowly: cable too small, low battery voltage, deckplate bearing, worn brushes, loose or dirty connections, low gearbox oil.