Maxwell RC8, RC10 & VW10 Windlass — Owner's Manual

Location & Fitting

1. In the box: clutch handle (bi-square handle), solenoid (RC8 and RC10 only), deckplate gasket, deck cut-out details (rear of manual), motor bolt kit, small parts, windlass.
2. Plan the location: rode feeds correctly, flat deck (plinth if not), avoid bulkheads, wiring and piping, strong enough mounting area, at least 200mm (8") unobstructed fall into the locker. The rode must not foul the motor and needs a clear run from roller to chainwheel; point the deckplate towards the incoming rode; leave room for the clutch handle.
3. Deck cut-out templates in the manual: RC8 part no. 7185, RC10 part no. 7522, VW10 part no. 7423 (each with the chain counter cut-out where applicable). Check the scale, align the gypsy with the bow roller and cut the holes in order A to D.
4. Seal hole edges with epoxy (not for steel or aluminium). Remove the gearbox from the spacer tube (release the quick release clip, undo the locknut, remove the key).
5. Seal the windlass to the deck with the gasket supplied (plastic insulating gasket on aluminium or steel: 7320 RC8, 7321 RC10), lower the deckplate in and tighten the nuts progressively and evenly; no power tools.
6. Grease shaft and spacer tube, fit the gearbox/motor assembly to the bottom of the spacer tube, rotate the shaft to line up the keyways, insert the key and fit the quick-release clip.
7. Keep the gearbox drain slots clear; a ‘dry’ motor location needs extra measures against leaks; insulate stainless fasteners and dissimilar metals from the deck.

Electrical

• Wiring by qualified technicians to USCG, ABYC, NMMA, CE requirements. Breaker/isolator required, within 1.8 m (6 ft) of the battery; solenoid pack and up/down control switch recommended, solenoid dry and close to the windlass.
• Control circuit: 5 Amp manually resettable breaker or 5 Amp slow blow fuse, minimum 1.5mm (No.16 AWG) conductor.
• Footswitch about 500 mm (20") from the windlass; hold the lower motor nut (A1) while tightening the upper (B1).
• RC8-6 has a permanent magnet motor; RC8-8, RC10 and VW10 series wound motors. Swapping F1 and F2, or connections 1 and 3 on the solenoid box, reverses rotation.

Values are mm² / AWG. 48V (RC8-8, RC10, VW10): 6 mm² / 10 AWG at every listed length. Cable length is the total run battery → windlass → battery; sizes keep voltage drop under 10% (copper, 90° C insulation).

Anchoring

• Lowering / raising: tighten the clutches clockwise with the clutch handle only enough to pull up the anchor (over-tightening can damage the motor when docking), remove the handle and use the up/down switch or footswitches. Tie off on a chain stopper, snubber or cleat; motor up to the anchor and bring in the last meter (3') slowly.
• Free fall: loosen the clutch nut slowly anticlockwise; turning clockwise controls the descent. Never let it run out of control.
• Manual recovery: clamp the rode, loosen the clutch anticlockwise, then fit the handle in the outer bi-square of the chainwheel and turn clockwise. There is no self-locking mechanism: clamp the rode before removing the handle and retighten the clutch.
• Set the clutch to slip slightly when docking the anchor; hold the anchor in the roller with a tensioner or snubber, not the windlass.

Capstan

1. The capstan works independently of the chainwheel, for mooring lines or a second anchor; a footswitch is highly recommended.
2. Secure the anchor; turn the clutch nut anticlockwise until rotation stops so the chainwheel stays still.
3. Up to three turns clockwise on the drum, light tailing pull, start with the UP footswitch; increase pull and tail hand over hand.
4. Reduce pull to slip; to hold, stop the windlass while keeping pull on the rope. Never put on so many turns that easing the tail will not let the rope slip, and keep clear of the footswitch while adding turns.

Schedule

• Gearbox oil: 70 – 80ml (2.4 – 2.7 fl oz), 1/2 to 3/4 full on the sight glass; API GL-4 or lower (low sulphur), 90 to 110 weight.
• Main shaft, bearing and clutch surfaces: lithium complex grease, NLGI No.1 to No.3. Seat the keys properly; never wrap the motor in grease cloth.

Troubleshooting

• Does not operate: breaker/isolator on; connections at switches, breaker, reversing solenoid and motor; battery condition; solenoid clicks.
• Motor runs, chainwheel does not turn: clutch nut too loose; chainwheel jammed; shaft-gearbox key missing; rough running or noise means gearbox damage; check the motor drive pin.
• Rope does not retrieve or pay out: wrong rope; fouled rope or anchor; twists in the chain pipe; worn or stiff rope; too much rope in the locker; worn splice; rough deck hole; twisting chain (fit a swivel).
• Runs slowly: cable too small, low battery voltage, deckplate bearing, worn brushes, loose or dirty connections, low gearbox oil.