Selden Furlex 404S — Owner's Manual

Table 1 – Wire cutting length

Measure the existing forestay length FL (hole in top terminal to hole of the part attached to the chain plate) with just enough tension to keep it straight. WL = FL – T – H (H = any links or extra toggles).

Example (404S/Ø12 with rigging screw 50% extended): FL 9500 – T 280 – H 0 = WL 9220. For a stud-terminated stay WL is the finished length, eye to end of stud.

Table 2 – Top extrusion & distance tube

From the bottom: one 1000 mm (39 3/8") extrusion, then full 2400 mm (94 1/2") extrusions, then a top extrusion cut from the 1700 mm (67") length.

• N = (WL – (A+B)) / 2400, rounded down; C = N x 2400
• D (top extrusion) = WL – (A+B) – C
• E (top distance tube) = D – 300 (11 13/16")
• If D < 700 mm (27 1/2"): N_new = N – 1, C_new = N_new x 2400 + 1700, D_new = D + 700, E_new = E + 700 (cut from a 2400 mm extrusion; the 1700 mm piece becomes 2nd from top).
• If D > 1700 mm, cut the top extrusion from a 2400 mm length and do not use the 1700 mm extrusion.

Luff extrusion (wire stay)

Work on a clean, flat surface with the whole stay stretched out. The extrusions are fed onto the wire and the luff is built from the top down.

1. Feed on the top extrusion (cut end up, hole down) and top distance tube (hinge sideways); push the tube in about half a joining-sleeve length with a short joining sleeve.
2. On Sta-Lok systems fit the halyard swivel and top guard now; on stud-terminated systems fit the top guard after the sail feeder.
3. Add extrusion, distance tube and short joining sleeve; fit a short connecting plate, lock the join with the sleeve. Repeat for every 2400 mm extrusion (short sleeves only).
4. Fit the long joining sleeve and the 1000 mm extrusion (two-hole end down) with the long connecting plate; align the holes and fit the two grub screws with locking adhesive.
5. Snap on the sail feeder connector, fit the sail feeder and tighten moderately. Fit the halyard swivel from the top, then the top guard with its four pre-fitted screws (tighten until they bottom, do not over-tighten).
6. Push the bearing plug halves into the long joining sleeve; file the aft half slightly if it is not a tight fit.

Terminals & drum unit

• Sta-Lok eye: mark WL from the centre of the top eye, tape and cut with a hacksaw. Socket on the wire, wedge over the 7-strand core with the core protruding approx. 2 mm (5/64"), spread the outer strands, former into the terminal (or rigging screw), long bead of locking adhesive, tighten. Unscrew and check no strand has slipped into the wedge slot, then 2–3 more drops and tighten firmly (permanent).
• Swaged stud: remove the toggle, screw the eye onto the stud until the holes align, drive in the spirol spring pin.
• Rod stay: discard socket, wedge and former; 2–3 drops of locking adhesive, check rod head and seat, tighten firmly.
• Drum unit: remove adaptor screws and the tube-shaft clevis pin; slide the drum unit over the eye terminal with its flat faces on the two internal ribs (with a rigging screw, unscrewed halfway and all three flats aligned). Refit the clevis pin, turn the knob in the upper hub toward the foil, fit the forward then aft adaptor half, tighten firmly, refit the toggle and split pins.

Mast, deck & furling line

• The forestay must articulate in all directions at top and bottom; toggles are needed in most cases. The drum-unit toggle always goes directly to the chain plate.
• Halyard angle 15–20°: fit the two halyard leads (Extended Pack) or a sheave box. Replace a halyard lead when wear reaches 50%. Lead the spinnaker halyard around the upper shroud when not in use.
• Below-deck (anchor well) installation: first turning point at least 300 mm (11 13/16") from the drum; well must be drained. If the drum is raised with an extension link, fit a toggle between link and stemhead fitting.
• Wind approximately 30 turns of line onto the drum before hoisting. Fit the rope through the two drum channels, first screw approx. 25 mm (63/64") from the end, then the second screw.
• Furling line exits port if the UV strip is on starboard, and vice versa.
• Final turning block: a swivel block with a maximum working load of not less than 15000 N (1500 kg/3300lb).

Forestay length & checklist

• With rigging screw: remove the adaptor halves, the drum-unit clevis pin, slide the drum unit up and secure it, then turn the rigging-screw body (never the wire terminal). Realign the flats, lower the drum unit, refit pins and adaptor halves. Do not overload the stop at full extension.
• Without rigging screw: lengthen with extra toggles; shortening means cutting wire and extrusion.
• Checklist: halyard angle 15–20°; at least 50 mm between halyard swivel and top guard; luff extrusion turns one turn before the tack ring; line guide clears the drum flanges; forestay articulates freely; split pins opened by 20°.

Hoisting

1. Tension backstay / runners fully before hoisting.
2. Turn the tack ring counter-clockwise if the line exits to port (clockwise if starboard), then attach tack and sheet.
3. Hoist in the starboard groove if the line exits to port, and vice versa, using the pre-feeder; remove the pre-feeder afterwards.
4. Tension the halyard until a vertical crease appears, then ease until it disappears.
5. Furl tightly: 3–5 turns must remain on the drum when fully furled. Check the swivel is at least 50 mm (1 31/32") below the top guard, and mark the halyard and backstay adjuster.

Furling, reefing & racing

• Unfurl with a turn of the furling line on a winch or cleat for drag; best between close reach and beam reach.
• Furl with light tension on the leeward sheet; belay the line on a cleat when leaving the boat.
• Reefing: ease the sheet until the luff just flaps, then furl; the "free turn" flattens the sail.
• Racing: remove line guide, cover, brims and sail feeder, lower the halyard swivel to the drum and refit the sail feeder for a twin-groove headfoil. Tack at least 100–125 mm (3 15/16" – 4 59/64") from the forestay attachment.

Service & storage

• Inspect once a year: luff extrusion damage, rotating parts and greased bearings.
• Wash with fresh water and a mild detergent, rinse thoroughly; silicon-free polish or wax on the extrusions.
• Grease all four ball bearings in the lower unit (remove the brims) and both halyard-swivel bearings with water-resistant Furlex grease.
• Store with the mast, never wrapped in plastic while damp; in frost areas store dry or with the centre extrusions raised.
• Never take the halyard swivel or drum unit apart: the ball bearings are loose and difficult to refit.

Dismantling notes

• Secure the rig with a halyard before disconnecting the forestay.
• Sta-Lok: heat the threads to release the adhesive; fit a new wedge and cut the core flush with the outer strands before reassembly.
• Stud/eye: drive out the locking pin and unscrew the eye.
• Luff: push out the lower bearing halves, remove sail feeder and top guard, then knock the joining sleeves up (via a piece of wood) to free the connectors.