Servicing a Lewmar windlass means replacing the shaft seals and bearings that keep saltwater out of the gearbox, rebuilding or swapping the motor/gearbox when it grinds or stalls, and fitting a new gypsy once the notches round off. MAURIPRO Sailing carries the genuine Lewmar seal kits, gearbox assemblies, gypsy kits, and contactors to rebuild V-Series, Pro-Series, and CPX windlasses correctly.
Lewmar windlass service at a glance
| Service job | What it involves | Lewmar part MAURIPRO carries |
|---|---|---|
| Seals & bearings | Replace the shaft seals, O-rings, and bearings that keep water out of the gear case | Pro Series Gen 3 Seals & Screw Kit, V4/5 Bearing/Seal Kit, V700 Bearing/Seal Kit |
| Gearbox | Rebuild the gear train or swap the motor/gearbox assembly when it won't drive under load | V4/C4 12V Motor/Gear Box, V5/C5 12V Motor Gearbox |
| Gypsy | Replace the notched chainwheel once it rounds off and starts slipping chain | CPX 202 Gypsy Kit |
| Fasteners | Replace corroded mounting screws and studs found during teardown | V1/2/3 Fastener Kit |
| Electrical | Swap the sealed changeover contactor that protects the motor circuit | Changeover Contactor 12V – Sealed |
This guide is written for the mid-size cruiser (roughly 30–45 ft) running a Lewmar V-Series, Pro-Series, or CPX windlass that's a few seasons old — the point where owners start noticing a rough-turning gypsy, a windlass that clicks but won't pull, or the first hint of rust weeping from the gear case seam. None of those symptoms mean the whole unit is dead; in most cases they point to a specific, replaceable part.
Lewmar's own manuals put it plainly: an anchor windlass sits in the most exposed position on the boat and is subject to atmospheric attack “in excess of that experienced with most other items of deck equipment,” and because it's used infrequently, the risk of corrosion is further increased — the entire case for a service schedule. By the end of this guide you'll know what to inspect on a regular and annual basis, how the seal, gearbox, and gypsy service procedures go, and which Lewmar part to order for each job.
Why does a Lewmar windlass need seal, gearbox, and gypsy service?
The shaft seals and O-rings are the only barrier between the ocean and the motor/gearbox casing. Once a seal hardens or a gasket compresses, water works into the gear case and corrodes the gears, bearings, and motor windings from the inside — damage you can't see until the unit stalls under load. The gypsy wears the opposite way: it's a machined chainwheel in constant contact with chain links, so every recovery rounds its surfaces a little further until it skips or jams. Servicing on a schedule replaces the cheap, wearing parts before they let a far more expensive motor/gearbox assembly fail.
How often should you service a Lewmar windlass?
Lewmar's Pro-Series/Sport/Fish owner's manual sets a two-tier schedule that applies in principle across the range. Regularly (after use, each season): wash down with fresh water; clean and lightly grease electrical connections; check the anchor locker drain; check the rode splice for wear; check the gypsy, since it's the highest-wear part; and check mounting studs after the first two or three recoveries, then regularly after. Annually: check electric cables for damage; strip and re-grease the above-deck components; check the motor/gearbox housing for corrosion and repaint with marine-grade enamel; and blow dust off the motor brushes (don't breathe the dust).
How do you replace the seals and bearings on a Lewmar windlass?
Start by isolating the windlass at its circuit breaker – every step below is done with the unit dead. On most V-Series and Pro-Series windlasses, above-deck seal and bearing service follows the same basic sequence Lewmar documents for gypsy access: remove the drive cap or clamp nut, lift off the cone washer and cone, then work down to the shaft seal and O-ring underneath. Inspect the seal lip for hardening, cracking, or a flat spot where it's been riding on the shaft — any of those means replace it rather than reuse it. Fit new seals and bearings from a kit matched to your model: MAURIPRO carries the Pro Series Gen 3 Seals & Screw Kit for current Pro-Series units, the V4/5 Bearing/Seal Kit, and the V700 Bearing/Seal Kit. On reassembly, Lewmar's manual flags one easy-to-skip step: add a small smear of grease to the cone and gypsy contact surfaces before closing it back up.
How do you rebuild or replace the windlass gearbox?
Gearbox work starts below deck. With the windlass isolated, disconnect the motor leads and remove the mounting bolts holding the motor/gearbox assembly to the deck plate. Lewmar's own service instructions for opening the rear casing are direct: “inspect the unit for wear on the gear train and bearings, re-grease where required” before closing it back up. If gears show visible pitting, bearings have play, or the motor won't turn the gypsy under load with good voltage present, swapping in a complete replacement assembly usually costs less time than a rebuild. MAURIPRO carries the V4/C4 12V Motor/Gear Box and the V5/C5 12V Motor Gearbox as drop-in replacements.
How do you replace a worn Lewmar gypsy?
Gypsy replacement is the most common windlass service job, since it's the one part in constant metal-to-metal contact with the chain. Lewmar's Pro-Series/Sport procedure: unscrew and remove the clutch nut and gypsy cone, unscrew and remove the stripper arm, then pull the control arm back to clear the gypsy and lift the assembly off the driveshaft. Wash in clean water — Lewmar's manual is explicit that you should not jet-wash it, since high-pressure water can force salt and grit past the seals you just serviced. Reassemble in reverse order with a smear of grease on the cone-to-gypsy contact surfaces. HX1 and other horizontal-shaft units use the same principle with a clamp nut in place of the clutch nut: release the clamp nut, remove the gypsy cap and cones, then lift the gypsy off the shaft.
What contactor and wiring parts fail on a Lewmar windlass?
When a windlass clicks but doesn't turn, the contactor is one of the first things to check – it's the sealed relay that switches full motor current when you press up or down. On Lewmar's own wiring diagrams for the HX1 and comparable models, the changeover contactor is part number 68000939, wired through a 3A fuse to a guarded rocker switch (68000593) using 1.5 mm² (16 AWG) switch wire. If you're chasing a different-looking part number on an older or foreign-market unit, cross-check it against your model's wiring diagram before ordering – contactor numbers have varied across Lewmar's windlass generations, and 68000939 is the current sealed contactor MAURIPRO stocks for this circuit.
What voltage and power specs matter when servicing?
Two figures from Lewmar's own manuals are worth having on the bench. Voltage: the proper reading on a 12-volt system is 13.5 volts, and constant low voltage will damage the motor – if your windlass is sluggish, check voltage at the motor terminals under load before assuming a mechanical fault. Current draw: on the HX1 500, draw at working load is 42A against a 50A supplied breaker; on the HX1 800 it's 60A against a 70A breaker. If you're sizing cable or a breaker for a rebuilt or replaced motor, match it to your specific model – don't reuse an old breaker rating without checking it against the replacement part.
Expert notes from the MAURIPRO systems bench
From servicing windlasses on 35–42 ft cruisers, the failure that surprises most owners isn't the seal itself – it's how long a slowly failing seal goes unnoticed. A hardened seal doesn't leak visibly; it lets in enough moisture over a season to pit bearings, and by the time the windlass sounds rough, the seal kit alone won't fix it. We also see gypsy wear blamed on the wrong part more than any other symptom – a rounding gypsy lets chain slip or jump under load, which sounds like a gearbox problem. Pull the gypsy and inspect the chain pockets first.
On the electrical side, a failing contactor often still clicks audibly – the coil pulls in, but the main contacts inside are too pitted to pass full motor current. If you hear the click and get nothing else, check voltage at the contactor's output terminal before you condemn the motor.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Jet-washing the gypsy or seal assembly – Lewmar's manual warns against it directly; high-pressure water drives salt and grit past seals you just replaced.
- Skipping the annual strip-and-repaint step – the regular wash-down catches surface salt, but only the annual teardown catches early corrosion before it spreads.
- Reassembling dry – every Lewmar service step calls for a light smear of grease on cone and gypsy contact surfaces; skipping it accelerates the wear you just fixed.
- Assuming a click means the motor is bad – a contactor that clicks but doesn't pass current looks identical to a dead motor from the helm.
- Reusing an old breaker rating on a replacement motor – current draw varies by model; match the breaker to the installed unit, not the one you removed.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know my Lewmar windlass needs new seals?
The clearest sign is moisture or rust-colored residue around the gear case seam or drive cap after a wash-down, or rough operation suggesting corrosion has reached the bearings. Lewmar's manual also recommends checking the gypsy and above-deck seals annually as routine practice, not just when a symptom shows up.
Can I rebuild the gearbox myself, or should I replace the whole assembly?
If the gear train and bearings show only light wear when you open the rear casing, cleaning, inspecting, and re-greasing per Lewmar's service steps is enough. Once gears are visibly pitted or the motor won't drive the gypsy under load with good voltage present, a full replacement assembly is usually the more reliable fix.
How often should I replace the gypsy?
There's no fixed calendar interval – check it regularly since it's the highest-wear part on the windlass, and replace it once the chain pockets round off enough to let chain slip or jump. Heavier anchoring use shortens that interval.
What's the correct contactor for my Lewmar windlass?
On Lewmar's current wiring diagrams for the HX1 and comparable 12V windlasses, the sealed changeover contactor is part 68000939. If you're working from an older or different part number, check it against your unit's wiring diagram rather than assuming a match.
Do I need to jet-wash the gypsy and seal components when servicing?
No – Lewmar's manual specifically instructs against jet-washing these parts during service. Wash them in clean water instead; high-pressure washing can force water and grit past seals and bearings you're trying to protect.
Recommended gear for servicing your Lewmar windlass
- Lewmar Pro Series Gen 3 Seals & Screw Kit – gear case seal, cover gasket, and fasteners in one kit for Pro-Series windlasses.
- Lewmar V4 / C4 12V Motor / Gear Box – complete replacement motor/gearbox for V4 and C4 windlasses when a rebuild isn't practical.
- Lewmar CPX 202 Gypsy Kit – stainless gypsy and stripper ring for CPX4 windlasses running 10 mm DIN 766, Campbell S3/S4, or 9.5 mm G30 chain.
- Lewmar Changeover Contactor 12V – Sealed – the sealed relay that switches motor current, and a common source of a click-but-no-turn fault.
Shop all Lewmar Windlass Spares →
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About the author: Written by the MAURIPRO Systems Team – MAURIPRO Sailing has outfitted cruisers and racers since 2003, and our systems specialists spec and service anchoring, plumbing, and engine hardware on boats in the 30–45 ft range. Facts and procedures in this guide are drawn from Lewmar's own windlass owner's manuals.
Last updated: August 17, 2026