Harken Jib Reefing & Furling Systems — Quick Service

Hard to Furl or Unfurl

• Too little headstay tension: increase it at the turnbuckle.
• Too much halyard tension: ease the halyard. Tensioning the backstay tightens the halyard: set the backstay, then tension the halyard.
• Line scrapes on the line guard: too much line on the spool, or the lead block angle spools line onto the bottom. Lead at 90° (perpendicular to the headstay), then untie and adjust the sheets to reduce line if needed.
• Line wound loosely or with overrides: make the last block in the lead system a ratchet block.
• Too much friction in the leads: use ball bearing blocks. Furling line running backwards through the ratchet block: re-rig the block in the correct direction.
• Stopper knot catching: MKI – dead-end with an overhand knot outside the drum; MKII, MKIII, MKIV – check it runs through the correct hole, or reduce knot size.
• Foils scraping at top or bottom: foil too high or too low; make sure it has not dropped into the torque tube and is riding on the turnbuckle.
• Tensioning the halyard makes it hard to furl: missing top bushing, or swivel installed upside down.

Sail Will Not Furl / Unfurl Completely

• Too much or too little line on the drum: untie the sheets, turn the furled unit to reduce or add line, retie.
• Line spools on the bottom of the drum and will not unfurl completely: adjust the forward lead block so the line leaves the middle of the spool at 90° to the headstay.

Accessories by Unit

See the unit's own manual for replacement component part numbers.

Furling Lead Block Kits

• Harken recommends Carbo lead blocks on every system for safe furling from the cockpit. The 7404 kit is a complete system for most boats and fits 25 mm (1") stanchions.
• 7402 ratchet: maintains tension when spooling for smooth furling. 7403 outboard assembly: keeps the furling line outboard of the stanchion. 7401 40 mm block: inboard lead on the bow pulpit.