Lofrans SX5 Vertical Windlass — Installation & User's Manual
INSTALLATION MANUAL
Performance data, gipsy and chain match, cable sizing and wiring, installation, operation, maintenance programme, troubleshooting and the parts list for the Lofrans SX5 vertical windlass (3000W DC, 4000W AC and 8cc hydraulic; drum and low-profile versions), with the drilling and chain-pipe templates.
DocumentLofrans SX5 Vertical Windlass Installation & User's Manual
FormatPDF · 20 pages · 3.3 MB
LanguageEnglish
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Technical Data
| 3000W | 4000W | 8cc (hydraulic) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vessel length, heavy duty | 85–95 ft (all versions) | ||
| Vessel length, light duty | 90–100 ft (all versions) | ||
| Power supply | 24V | 230/400V | 30 LPM @ 86 bar (max 200 bar)* |
| Maximum linear load/pull | 2800 kg 6173 lb |
3000 kg 6613 lb |
3000 kg 6600 lb |
| Max lift working load | 760 kg 1676 lb |
815 kg 1797 lb |
815 kg 1793 lb |
| Amps at work load | 210 A | N/A | N/A |
| Max line speed | 33 / 108 (as printed, header ft/min) | 20 / 66 | 22 / 72 |
| Line speed | 17 m/min 56 ft/min |
20 m/min 66 ft/min |
22 m/min 72 ft/min |
| Net weight with drum | 100 kg 220 lb |
105 kg 231 lb |
105 kg 231 lb |
* If these hydraulic values are not respected the warranty is terminated.
| Gipsy | Chain supported |
|---|---|
| 12 mm | 12 mm ISO, 13 DIN 766, 7/16" G4 |
| 13 DIN 764 | 13 DIN 764 |
| 14 mm | 14 mm ISO |
| 1/2" HT | 1/2" G4 |
| 1/2" BBB | 1/2" BBB |
Electrical System
| Motor (W) | Voltage (V) | Contactor (A) | Cable 15–25 m / 50–75 ft | Cable >25 m / >75 ft |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3000 | 24 | 125 | 50 mm² / 2 AWG | 75 mm² / 000 AWG |
Cable length is the total run, positive plus negative.
- Wiring diagram for the 4-terminal 3000W 24V motor: battery and fuse, solenoids, motor terminals, deck footswitches UP/DOWN (brown, red, blue wires) and the Thetis 1002 hand-held remote.
- Thetis 1002 connector: pin 1 Up (brown), pin 2 Common (battery +), pin 3 Down (blue).
- Contactor (control box): mount in a dry place near the windlass.
- Circuit breakers: use the Lofrans breakers, chosen for their trip curve and not just a plate rating.
- Remote control panel: mount where the operator can see the windlass and seal it so the terminals stay dry.
Disconnect power to the windlass before any work on it.
Before You Drill
- Align the windlass precisely with the bow roller.
- The deck faces (above and below) must be parallel; shim to compensate if they are not.
- With all the chain stowed, leave a minimum of 300 mm between the underside of the deck and the top of the heaped chain.
- Bow roller height must keep the chain inclination below 5 degrees.
- Deck thickness: 100 mm (3.93") with the standard series studs (the dimension drawing gives min 60 – max 90 mm, as printed). Other deck thicknesses can be supplied on request.
- Tools: drill, 6 and 16 mm bits for wood and steel, 60 mm diameter hole saw, 10 mm, 13 mm and 17 mm hex keys.
- Electrically conductive or aluminium hulls: insulate the windlass from the deck with a non-conductive gasket (not supplied), and insulate anchor, chain, chain stopper and fixings from the hull. Without this, electrolysis corrodes the windlass quickly.
In the box: windlass with motor/gearbox, control box (DC versions), handle, screws.
Deck and Under Deck
- Place the drilling template on deck, aligned with the bow.
- Mark and drill. Leave the hole edges sharp, but radius the forward edge of the chain hole at 45°.
- Set the upper part of the windlass on deck. Seal the base with silicone, never with a permanent adhesive, so it can be removed for service.
- Grease the main shaft.
- Join the gearbox to the upper part with the motor positioned away from the chain hole.
- Fit the washers and nuts on the studs and tighten.
- Connect the battery cables to the motor following the wiring diagram.
Chain
- Use calibrated chain matching the gipsy fitted.
- Always fit a swivel (articulated joint) between chain and anchor so the chain does not twist.
- First load: feed the chain through the hole and secure the end to a safe point, wrap it round the gipsy, then recover all the chain under power checking it enters the gipsy aligned.
- A chain pipe is recommended to lead the chain straight into the locker.
| Chain pipe code | For windlass |
|---|---|
| 636311 | SX2 & SX3 |
| 636312 | SX3,5 |
| 636313 | SX4 |
| 636314 | SX5 |
Operation
Lowering
- Electrically: clutch tight, brake off, chain fixings off; switch on the safety switch and press DOWN. Switch off and re-engage the chain fixings when done.
- By gravity (free fall): clutch tight, stopper and brake off, then ease the clutch with the handle. Clockwise increases braking (to a full stop), anticlockwise reduces it. Then secure the chain to a strong point.
- A fully released clutch drops the anchor at high speed and can damage the hood and bow roller: always control the speed.
- Wait for the windlass to stop before reversing direction.
Recovery and Warping Drum
- Breaker on, clutch tight, brake off, handle removed, stoppers off; press UP until the anchor seats in the bow roller, then breaker off and chain on the stopper.
- Run the engine or generator during recovery; do not rely on the batteries alone.
- If the breaker trips on overload, reset it and wait some minutes before running again. It does not protect the motor from overheating on long runs.
- Warping drum: brake on and anchor secured; handle in the drum, turn clockwise to release the clutch (drum turns independently of the gipsy), three turns of rope clockwise, press UP. Make the rope fast to a bollard afterwards.
- Never put chain on the warping drum. Always remove the handle when not in use.
- Lay the chain on the seabed without heaping it; motor slowly up over the anchor to ease recovery; slow down as the anchor reaches the bow roller.
- If the windlass stalls, slips or goes into self-protection during recovery, find the cause before carrying on.
Never use the windlass as a mooring point: hold the load on a chain stopper or strong point, and make sure the anchor is stowed and secured when under way.
Maintenance Programme
| Use of the yacht (months) | Less than 2 | From 2 up to 6 | More than 6 | Charter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Every 3 months | A – A (as printed) | A – B | A – B | |
| Every 6 months | A – B | |||
| Every 12 months | A – B – C | C | C | C – D |
| Every 24 months | D | D | E | |
| Every 36 months | D – E | E | E |
- A – Rinse all surfaces and hidden points with fresh water and a soft cloth or non-abrasive sponge. No chlorine, bleach or acid (they damage the stainless parts and the seals); polish the stainless parts.
- B – Grease the rotating parts with non-conductive yellow marine grease, especially the main shaft threads and clutch cones; check for corrosion and mechanical stress. Anti-seize on the clutch nut and main shaft thread (635494+636441).
- C – Check the motor terminals and test the voltage drop at the terminals.
- D – Replace all gaskets.
- E – Remove the windlass from the deck, clean the salt from under the base and re-seal.
Disconnect power before any maintenance. Skipping the maintenance programme voids the warranty.
Gipsy Service / Replacement
- Turn the gipsy hand-wheel anticlockwise with the handle to remove it.
- Slide the upper clutch cone, the gipsy and the lower clutch cone off the shaft.
- Wash with running water. Do not use water under pressure.
- Check for corrosion or mechanical stress.
- Reassemble in reverse order, greasing the threads and all moving parts.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Windlass does not run when a control is operated | Protection switch OFF; no voltage; control box, control or motor failure | Set the switch ON; check battery charge and connections; check/replace the control box or control; measure motor voltage – if OK, check and clean the brushes, otherwise replace the motor |
| Chain jams frequently | Locker too shallow for the chain carried; chain does not suit the gipsy; chain not calibrated | Fit the windlass over the deepest point of the locker or carry less chain; change the gipsy; replace chain that is out of tolerance |
| Windlass turns slowly | Cables too small; deck faces not parallel; bad connections; dirty brushes; water in the motor | Increase cable section; shim the faces parallel; check connections; clean brushes; replace the motor |
| Motor runs, shaft turns neither up nor down | Worn or broken wormwheel/worm teeth; broken motor spindle | (Service) Remove and replace the broken parts, checking no debris has entered the oil; replace the motor, making sure no broken piece is left in the worm bore. Replace gaskets, screws, keys, circlips and oil at the same time |
| Motor runs, shaft turns UP but not DOWN | Tangled chain locker, poor chain (burrs, zinc), chain stowed in a block, worn spring of the emergency mechanism, or stripper fouling the gipsy – the emergency mechanism engages | Fit a swivel after the anchor; inspect and free the chain link by link; pay out all the chain in deep water and recover it; (service) replace the spring; re-centre the stripper on the gipsy or replace it if deformed. The emergency mechanism can be locked by service only with the owner's authorisation – this removes the emergency function |
| Motor runs but the warping drum cannot be used | Drum used in the wrong direction, so the emergency mechanism engages | Warp with the main shaft turning in the same direction as when the gipsy recovers chain |
| Motor and shaft turn, gipsy stays still with the brake band loose | Gipsy not clamped on the clutch cones, or the closing wheel at end of travel; deformed cones with the hubs touching | Check clutch tightening, measure for deformation (shims can help), then replace the damaged clutch and/or gipsy |
| Shaft runs out of true, gipsy and drum wobble | Shaft bent by excessive load | Check use is within the windlass specification; (service) replace the shaft and worn parts |
| Oil leak between motor and gearbox | Loose motor coupling makes the worm run irregularly | (Service) find why the fasteners loosened, check the spindle and worm bore, repair on the bench, check for oil in the motor; replace gaskets, keys, circlips, screws and oil |
| Shaft and studs too short for the gearbox on installation | Wrong deck thickness specified | If the key engages the gearbox over its full length the studs can be adapted; otherwise order a longer shaft |
| Runs slowly and sometimes trips the breaker | Cables too small; poor connections; dirty brushes; water in the motor; deck faces not parallel; gearbox lost oil; motor strains; works in one direction only | Increase cable section; check connections; clean brushes; replace the motor; shim the faces parallel; (service) inspect the gearbox and motor; check for 12/24V between B2–C and B3–C on the control box when each button is pressed – if present and a relay does not work, replace the control box |
Spare Parts
Item numbers refer to the exploded view; items 2051–2054 are the low-profile (L.P) parts.
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| 217 | Hex hd screw M8×20 |
| 226 | Washer for screw M8 |
| 231 | Washer for screw M5 |
| 324 | Hd cap screw M8×20 |
| 250 | Hd cap screw M5×8 |
| 255 | Key 6×6×25 |
| 260 | Spring washer for screw M8 |
| 272 | Handle |
| 293 | Hd cap screw M5×16 |
| 336 | Oil cap |
| 361 | Seal 40×50×5 |
| 395 | Seal 50×70×10 |
| 396 | Bearing 16010 |
| 400 | Circlip 15 DIN 471 |
| 407 | Sightglass |
| 414 | Hex hd screw M8×30 |
| 449 | Pivot |
| 453 | Bearing 6206 |
| 567 | Clutch nut |
| 568 | Seal 55×72×10 |
| 575 | Band brake |
| 576 | Pivot |
| 577 | Spring |
| 578 | Brake pivot wheel |
| 581 | Safety nut M12 |
| 582 | Dished plane spring |
| 583 | Clutch cone – inner |
| 585 | Brake pivot support |
| 586 | Brake pivot |
| 609 | Key 12×8×60 |
| 642 | Brake cover |
| 671 | Bearing 6011 |
| 730 | Conic screw M10×30 |
| 741 | Key 12×8×150 |
| 746 | Stud M8×40 |
| 874 | Gearcase – upper |
| 875 | O-ring seal 4800 |
| 877 | Ratchet ("Racket" as printed) |
| 878 | Gearcase – lower |
| 879 | O-ring seal 159 |
| 880 | Oil level flange |
| 881 | Coupling flange |
| 883 | Spacer |
| 884 | Handle |
| 1024 | Spring |
| 1031 | Sensor |
| 1256 | Electric motor 3000W 24V |
| 1260 | Wormwheel |
| 1261 | Worm |
| 1262 | Motor flange for B14 |
| 1263 | Hd cap screw M12×30 |
| 1264 | Spacer |
| 1265 | Base |
| 1269 | Support sensor |
| 1270 | Hand-wheel |
| 1272 | Drum |
| 1273 | Clutch cone – outer |
| 1275 | Stripper |
| 1276 | Stripper base |
| 1277 | Seal 55×90×10 |
| 1278 | Spiral retaining ring 55mm |
| 1279 | Circlip 90 DIN 472 |
| 1280 | Main shaft |
| 1313 | Gipsy chain 12 ISO – 13 DIN 766 – 1/2" DIN 766 |
| 1323 | Key 6×7×40 |
| 574d | Gipsy chain 14 ISO |
| 574g | Gipsy chain 12.5 ISO |
| 632b | Bearing 51108 |
| 641ai | A.C. electric motor 4KW B14 |
| 2051 | Gypsy cap SX5 L.P |
| 2052 | Upper cone clutch SX5 L.P |
| 2053 | Main shaft SX5 L.P |
| 2054 | Key SX5 L.P |
Overall Dimensions & Templates
| Ref. | mm | inch |
|---|---|---|
| A | 378 | 14 7/8 |
| B (deck) | min 60 – max 90 | min 2 13/32 – max 3 5/8 |
| C | 186 | 7 21/64 |
| D | 132 | 5 3/16 |
| E | 232 | 9 1/8 |
| F | 362 | 14 1/4 |
| G | 141 | 5 9/16 |
| H | 270 | 10 21/32 |
| H' | 436 | 17 5/32 |
| I | 264 | 10 13/32 |
| J | 156 | 6 5/32 |
| J' | 152 | 5 31/32 |
| K | 339 | 13 11/32 |
| L | 191 | 7 17/32 |
| L' | 189 | 7 7/16 |
H', J', L': electric motor dimensions. Letters refer to the dimension drawing in the manual.
- Drilling template (separate download, A2 sheet, scale 1:1).
- Chain pipe template (separate download, A3 sheet, scale 1:1) for chain pipe 636314.
- Print both at 100% (actual size) and check any test line with a ruler before marking the deck.
Warranty
- 3 years from the date of purchase by the end user, with normal use and the maintenance programme followed.
- Limited to one year: electric motors and electrical equipment, electronic controls, hydraulic pumps, valves and actuators, gaskets and seals, and products used on charter boats.
- Not covered: wrong choice of windlass, corrosion, UV degradation and wear, missed maintenance, wrong installation, modifications, use outside the specification, and service by persons not authorised by Lofrans.
Need a part that isn't listed? Ask us to source it and quote the part number from the PDF.
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