Performance data, gipsy and chain/rope match, cable sizing, deck and under-deck installation, operation, maintenance, troubleshooting, dimensions and the parts list for the Lofrans X0 500W vertical windlass, plus the contents of maintenance kit 72036.

Technical Data
| X0 500W | |
|---|---|
| Vessel length, heavy duty | 20–30 ft |
| Vessel length, light duty | 30–35 ft |
| Power supply | 12V |
| Maximum linear load/pull | 630 kg / 1386 lb |
| Maximum lift load | 345 kg / 759 lb |
| Max lift working load | 95 kg / 209 lb |
| Amps at work load | 60 A |
| Max line speed | 26 m/min / 78 ft/min |
| Line speed at working load | 23 m/min / 69 ft/min |
| Net weight with drum | 12 kg / 27 lb |
| Net weight, low profile | 11 kg / 25 lb |
| Gipsy | Chain supported | Rope supported |
|---|---|---|
| 6 mm | 6 mm ISO, 6 mm DIN 766, 3/16" BBB | 12 mm – 1/2" |
| 7 mm | 7 mm ISO, 7 mm DIN 766, 1/4" G4, 1/4" BBB | 12 mm – 1/2" |
Electrical System
| Motor (W) | Voltage (V) | Contactor (A) | Cable 0–15 m / 0–50 ft | Cable 15–25 m / 50–75 ft |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 500 | 12 | 35 | 16 mm² / 6 AWG | 25 mm² / 4 AWG |
Cable length is the total run, positive plus negative.
- Contactor (control box): mount in a dry place near the windlass.
- Circuit breakers: use the Lofrans breakers, chosen for their trip curve and not just a plate rating. Isolate the windlass at the breaker whenever it is not in use.
- Remote control panel: mount where the operator can see the windlass (deck, helm or cockpit) and seal it so the terminals stay dry.
- Wiring diagram E0004: rocker switch or hand-held remote; remote connector 1 – B3, 2 – battery, 3 – B2.
Always disconnect electrical power to the windlass before any work on it.
Before You Drill
- In the box: windlass with motor/gearbox, remote control switch or reverser box, base gasket, drilling template, handle, screws.
- Tools: drill, 10 mm bit for wood and steel, 10 mm, 13 mm and 17 mm hex keys.
- Align the windlass precisely with the bow roller; bow roller height must keep the chain inclination below 5 degrees.
- The deck faces must be parallel; shim if they are not.
- With all the chain stowed, leave at least 300 mm between the underside of the deck and the top of the heaped chain.
- Deck thickness 18–30 mm with the standard studs; other thicknesses on request. The deck must be solid enough for the recovery loads.
- Aluminium boats: insulate the windlass from the deck with a non-conductive gasket (not supplied), and insulate anchor, chain, locker and fixings from the hull.
Deck and Under Deck
- Place the drilling template on deck, aligned with the bow.
- Mark and drill. Leave the hole edges sharp, but radius the forward edge of the chain hole at 45°.
- Clean and fit the gasket supplied, then set the upper part on deck.
- Below deck: grease the main shaft, join the gearbox with the motor away from the chain hole, fit washers and nuts on the studs and tighten.
- Connect the battery cables to the motor following the wiring diagram.
Loading the Chain
- Remove the hood (two screws).
- Feed the chain through the hole and secure it to a safe point.
- Refit the hood.
- Wrap the chain round the gipsy.
- Recover all the chain under power, checking it enters the gipsy aligned.
Use calibrated chain matching the gipsy and always fit a swivel between chain and anchor.
Operation
Lowering
- Electrically: clutch tight, chain fixings off; switch on the safety switch and press DOWN; switch off and re-engage the fixings.
- By gravity: clutch tight and stoppers off, then ease the clutch with the handle. Clockwise brakes the chain (to a full stop), anticlockwise lets it run. Then make the chain (or rope) fast to a strong point.
- A fully released clutch drops the anchor at high speed and can damage the hood and bow roller: always control the speed.
- Wait for the windlass to stop before reversing direction.
Recovery
- Breaker on, clutch tight, handle removed, stoppers off; press UP until the anchor seats in the bow roller, then breaker off and chain on the stopper.
- If possible run the engine or generator while recovering rather than relying on the batteries alone.
- If the breaker trips on overload, reset it and wait some minutes; it does not protect the motor from overheating on long runs.
- Lay the chain on the seabed without heaping it, motor slowly up over the anchor, and slow down as the anchor reaches the bow roller.
Never use the windlass as a mooring point: hold the load on a chain stopper or strong point.
Maintenance Programme
| Use of the yacht (months) | Less than 2 | From 2 up to 6 | More than 6 | Charter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Every 3 months | A – B | A – B | ||
| Every 6 months | A – B | |||
| Every 12 months | A – B – C | C | C | C – D |
| Every 24 months | D | D | E | |
| Every 36 months | D – E | E | E |
- A – Clean all external surfaces and hidden points with fresh water to remove the salt.
- B – Grease the rotating parts, especially the main shaft threads and clutch cones; check for corrosion and mechanical stress.
- C – Check the motor terminals and test the voltage drop at the terminals.
- D – Replace all gaskets.
- E – Remove the windlass from the deck, clean the salt from under the base and re-seal.
Gipsy Service / Replacement
- Turn the gipsy hand-wheel anticlockwise with the handle to remove it.
- Slide the upper clutch cone, gipsy and lower clutch cone off the shaft.
- Wash with running water, never pressure-wash, and check for corrosion or mechanical stress.
- Reassemble in reverse order, greasing threads and all moving parts.
Disconnect power before any maintenance. Skipping the programme voids the warranty.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Windlass does not run when a control is operated | Protection switch OFF; no voltage; control box, control or motor failure | Set the switch ON; check battery charge and connections; check/replace the control box or control; measure motor voltage – if OK, check and clean the brushes, otherwise replace the motor |
| Chain jams frequently | Locker too shallow for the chain carried; chain does not suit the gipsy; chain not calibrated | Fit the windlass over the deepest point of the locker or carry less chain; change the gipsy; replace chain that is out of tolerance |
| Runs slowly and sometimes trips the breaker | Cables too small; poor connections; dirty brushes; water in the motor; deck faces not parallel; gearbox lost oil; motor strains; works in one direction only | Increase cable section; check connections; clean brushes; replace the motor; shim the faces parallel; (service) inspect gearbox and motor and brushes; check for 12/24V between B2–C and B3–C on the control box when each button is pressed – if present and a relay does not work, replace the control box |
| Motor runs, shaft turns neither up nor down | Worn or broken wormwheel/worm teeth; broken motor spindle | (Service) replace the broken parts, checking no debris has entered the oil; replace the motor, making sure no broken piece is left in the worm bore. Replace gaskets, screws, keys, circlips and oil at the same time |
| Motor runs, shaft turns UP but not DOWN | Tangled chain locker; poor chain with burrs and zinc deposits; chain stowed in a block with links jammed | Fit a swivel after the anchor; inspect and free the chain link by link; pay out all the chain in water deep enough to free it and recover it |
| Cannot recover: gipsy stays still | Gipsy not clamped on the clutch cones, or the closing wheel at end of travel; deformed cones with the hubs touching | Check clutch tightening, measure for deformation (shims can help), then replace the clutch and/or gipsy |
| Shaft runs out of true | Shaft bent by excessive load | Check use is within the specification; (service) replace the shaft and worn parts |
| Oil leak between motor and gearbox | Loose motor coupling makes the worm run irregularly | (Service) find why the fasteners loosened, check spindle and worm bore, repair on the bench, check for oil in the motor and replace seals |
| Shaft and studs too short on installation | Wrong deck thickness specified | Adapt the studs if the key engages the gearbox over its full length; otherwise order a longer shaft |
| The finger is broken | Poor lead of the rope or the chain rolling has broken the finger; check the gipsy suits working with the finger | Replace the finger. If the gipsy cannot work properly with the finger, fit the replacement kit (cap) |
Spare Parts

Item numbers refer to the exploded view (B.29.101 Rev. A). The kit letter shows which kit includes each part.
| Item | Description | Kit |
|---|---|---|
| 206b | Gipsy chain 6 – 5 pockets | – |
| 207 | Clutch cone – inner | – |
| 208 | Ring | – |
| 210 | Key 6×6×15 | Kit C |
| 214 | Washer | – |
| 215 | O-ring 2068 | Kit A |
| 216 | Bush | – |
| 222 | Washer | – |
| 223 | Circlip 18 DIN 471 | Kit D |
| 224 | Key 6×6×45 | Kit C |
| 226 | Washer for M8 screw | Kit B |
| 227 | Nut M8 | Kit B |
| 229 | Nut M5 | Kit B |
| 230 | Spring washer for M5 screw | Kit B |
| 231 | Washer for M5 screw | Kit B |
| 232 | Key 4×4×15 | Kit C |
| 236 | Stripper | – |
| 241 | Nylon washer for M8 screw | Kit B |
| 242a | Cap nut M8 | Kit B |
| 243 | Nylon cover | – |
| 244 | Cover | – |
| 247 | Hex hd screw M8×60 | Kit B |
| 248 | Base | – |
| 270 | Hex hd screw M8×65 | Kit B |
| 842b | Handle | – |
| 848 | Main shaft | – |
| 849 | Nut | – |
| 850 | Electric motor 500W 12V | – |
| 851 | Gearbox | – |
| 1059 | Plate | – |
| Kit code | Description | |
|---|---|---|
| KA04101 | Kit A – Seals | Ask us to source it → |
| KB18101 | Kit B – Screws & nuts (code as printed) | Ask us to source it → |
| KC04101 | Kit C – Keys | Ask us to source it → |
| KD04101 | Kit D – Circlips | Ask us to source it → |
Maintenance Kit 72036 for X0

| Code | Description |
|---|---|
| 210 | Key 6×6×15 |
| 215 | O-ring 2068 |
| 223 | Circlip 18 DIN 471 |
| 224 | Key 6×6×45 |
| 226 | Washer for M8 screw |
| 227 | Nut M8 |
| 229 | Nut M5 |
| 230 | Spring washer for M5 screw |
| 231 | Washer for M5 screw |
| 232 | Key 4×4×15 |
| 241 | Nylon washer for M8 screw |
| 242A | Cap nut M8 |
| 247 | Hex hd screw M8×60 |
| 270 | Hex hd screw M8×65 |
Overall Dimensions & Drilling Template
| Ref. | mm |
|---|---|
| A | 73 |
| B (deck) | min 18 – max 30 |
| C | 110 |
| F | 187 |
| G | 64 |
| H | 211 |
| I | 136 |
| J | Ø82 |
| L | 82 |
Letters refer to the dimension drawing C.29.101 in the manual.
- The drilling template is printed in the manual (four 9 mm / 3/8" stud holes, shaft hole, chain cut-out and chain line).
- Print that page at 100% (actual size) and check the printed dimensions with a ruler before marking the deck.
Need a part that isn't listed? Ask us to source it and quote the part number from the PDF.






