INSTALLATION MANUAL

Fitting the Max-Prop Easy SailDrive (2, 3 & 4 blade) on the drive spline, greasing, pitch and rotation changes, feathering under sail, removal, shaft nut fitting and yearly maintenance.

DocumentMax-Prop Easy SailDrive (2, 3 & 4 Blade) Instruction Manual
FormatPDF · 12 pages · 1.3 MB
LanguageEnglish
Max-Prop Easy SailDrive (2, 3 & 4 Blade) — Instruction Manual

What's Included

  • Propeller, shipped assembled with the rotation and pitch set at order
  • Shaft nut (×1), shaft nut lock screws (×2), center locking bolt (×1) and its set screw (×1)
  • Zinc anode (×1) and zinc bolts (×3)
  • Pitch adjustment bolts (×2) and pitch locking screws (×2)
  • Grease fitting (×1) and grease plug (×1 or 2)

Before You Start

  • This propeller uses a 63mm anode.
  • Unlike Classic Max-Prop models, the Easy ships assembled and ready to fit.
  • Max-Prop parts are NOT interchangeable: with two propellers (a catamaran, for example) never swap parts between them.
  • Read the manual and check the propeller works correctly before installing it.

Installation

Max-Prop Easy SailDrive exploded view: spline, thrust washer, prop, shaft nut, center locking bolt, zinc anode and bolts

  1. Fit the propeller onto the spline like a fixed propeller, with the thrust washer on the spline first. Without the thrust washer the propeller is loose fore and aft on the spline and will damage the SailDrive or the propeller.
  2. Firmly tighten the nut. Align the holes in the back of the nut with the grooves in the central hub and tighten the two shaft nut lock screws. Insert and tighten the center locking bolt into the back of the nut and secure it with its set screw. Loctite blue on these locking bolts is optional.
  3. Fit the zinc with the three Allen bolts; zinc and propeller must be clean for good contact.
  4. Fill the propeller with the supplied marine grease through the (3 to 4) holes marked "GREASE", using the supplied grease fitting, following the illustrated sequence 4.1 to 4.9 and repeating with the forward fitting. The central body must be completely full: grease must ooze from the rotating joints between the central part and the hub. Use only a Max-Prop approved grease that stays fluid for years and does not stiffen in cold water; Max-Prop recommends Lubriplate 130AA (calcium based, NLGI 1).
  5. Check the blades are lined up correctly in the feathered position.

Before Launching

  • Hold the propeller shaft and check that the blades rotate freely from forward to reverse with a light effort.
  • In the feathered position the blades must be perfectly lined up.
  • Confirm the propeller body is full of grease.
  • Protect the propeller from galvanic corrosion with sacrificial anodes on the propeller and on the shaft.

Pitch Adjustment

Blade angle 12" 13" 14" 15" 16" 17" 18" 19" 20" 21" 22" 23" 24" 25" 26"
10° 4 4.3 4.6 4.9 5.2 5.5 6 6.3 6.7 7.1 7.4 7.7 8 8.3 8.6
12° 4.8 5.2 5.6 6 6.4 6.8 7.2 7.6 8 8.4 8.8 9.2 9.6 10 10.4
14° 5.6 6 6.6 7.1 7.6 8 8.4 8.8 9.4 9.8 10.4 10.8 11.2 11.6 12.2
16° 6.4 6.9 7.6 8.1 8.6 9.1 9.8 10.3 10.8 11.3 12 12.5 13 13.5 14
18° 7.2 7.8 8.6 9.2 9.8 10.4 11 11.5 12.1 12.8 13.4 14 14.6 15.2 16
20° 8.2 8.9 9.6 10.3 11 11.6 12.4 13 13.7 14.5 15 15.6 16.4 17 17.8
22° 9.2 10 10.7 11.4 12.2 12.9 13.6 14.3 15.1 16 16.8 17.5 18.2 18.9 19.8
24° 10 10.9 11.8 12.5 13.4 14.2 15 15.8 16.8 17.6 18.4 19.2 20.2 21 21.8
26° 11 12 12.8 13.8 14.7 15.7 16.6 17.4 18.4 19.3 20.2 21 22 22.9 23.8
28° 12 13 13.9 15 16 17 18 18.9 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
30° 13 14 15.1 16.2 17.3 18.5 19.6 20.6 21.7 22.8 24 25 26.1 27.3 28.2

Fig.3: pitch in inches for each blade angle (rows) and propeller diameter (columns). Size diameter and pitch as for a fixed propeller, find your diameter column, go down to the pitch you need and read the blade angle across.

  • Supplied with 5 forward pitch bolts (16, 18, 20, 22 and 26 degrees blade angle) and 3 reverse pitch bolts (#1 = 14 degrees, #2 = 20 degrees, #3 = 24 degrees). Example: the #20 bolt in the forward bore plus #2 in reverse gives 20° in both directions.
  • If the engine does not reach the desired RPM, reduce the blade angle; if it exceeds it, increase the blade angle. One 2° step changes engine RPM by about 13% at the same boat speed.
  • The body has two threaded bores marked "R" and "L", each with a pitch bolt. Forward pitch is set by the bolt in bore "R" on a right-hand propeller, or in bore "L" on a left-hand one.
  • Rotation is judged from the stern looking forward with the engine in forward: clockwise = right hand "R", counterclockwise = left hand "L".
  • A lost pitch bolt can be replaced; the correct size needs the propeller serial number, stamped into the zinc bearing ring under the anode.

Micro adjustment with the existing bolt

  • With the existing bolt you can lower forward pitch and increase reverse pitch. A higher forward angle (bolt already fully engaged) or a lower reverse angle needs a longer bolt.
  • Forward: a 1/4 counterclockwise turn reduces the blade angle by 1/2 degree (about 3.25% more engine RPM at a given boat speed); one full turn reduces it by 2 degrees, two full turns by 4 degrees.
  • Mark the bolt position and its orientation to the locking set screw, remove the locking set screw, loosen the pitch bolt by the amount needed and lock it again with the set screw. The same method increases the reverse blade angle.

Changing the Rotation

  1. Place the propeller in the feathered position; unscrew the zinc locking screws and remove the zinc.
  2. Unscrew the nut locking screws and remove the nut.
  3. On the aft side of the hub one tooth carries a reference mark; the zinc bearing ring has one tooth marked "L" and one marked "R", one of them aligned with the mark.
  4. Remove the circlip on the aft edge of the hub.
  5. Remove the zinc bearing ring.
  6. Refit the ring with the "L" tooth on the hub reference mark for a left-hand propeller, or the "R" tooth for a right-hand propeller.
  7. Refit the circlip in its seat.
  8. Tighten the nut and secure it with the nut locking screws.
  9. Refit the zinc with its 3 screws.
  10. Change the pitch bolts to suit the new rotation.

Propeller Use

  • The propeller works automatically: put the transmission in gear and the blades engage in forward or reverse; they feather from the forward position when you stop the engine and lock the shaft.
  • Best way to feather: power at 2 to 3 knots in forward, then kill the engine while still engaged in forward. A properly greased propeller feathers in a fraction of a second once the shaft stops freewheeling.
  • Do NOT kill the engine in reverse: the blades stay in the reverse position and cannot feather. You can use this to drive a shaft alternator, or regenerate with an electric motor.
  • Mechanical transmission: stop the shaft freewheeling by engaging reverse, only after the engine has stopped completely.
  • Hydraulic transmission: shut off the engine while still engaged in forward; the remaining hydraulic pressure locks the shaft for a few moments, enough for the propeller to feather.

Never shift between forward and reverse at high RPM. Idle down and shift at low RPM, or the shock load can damage the teeth of the blade gears and cone gear.

Removal & New Shaft Nut

Remove the zinc and the nut, then fit a long-armed gear puller over the front of the propeller. Tightening the puller's centre bolt releases the propeller from the shaft. If the puller bolt is too short to reach the shaft end inside the propeller, loosen the nut and leave it in place: the puller bolt then pushes against the back of the nut.

A replacement shaft nut must be fitted to the propeller with the correct tolerances (it may need light machining); the nut on a new propeller is already machined to fit.

  • Locked on the shaft, the nut must contact the three surfaces S1, S2 and S3. On a newly machined nut, lengths L1 and L2 must coincide precisely with the corresponding lengths of the hub, and L3 must be greater than the threaded end of the shaft.
  • Check: spread a very thin coat of Prussian blue on S1, S2 and S3, seat the nut in the hub and rotate it softly with light pressure; all three hub surfaces must come out blue.
  • When fitting, the threaded part of the shaft must not touch the threaded end of the nut, and the blades must not get hard to rotate once the nut is tight. If they do, remove a very small amount of material from S1 with a flat smooth file.

Maintenance

  • The propeller must always be completely filled with Lubriplate 130AA grease and greased at least once a year.
  • Keep the zinc anodes in good condition and replace them at least once a year, even if they still look OK. Use a zinc on the shaft as well when possible.
  • When replacing a zinc, clean the contact surfaces so it has good electrical contact.
  • Greasing can be done with the boat in or out of the water.

Anode: the manual specifies a 63mm anode for this propeller.

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