Maxwell Freedom Windlass — Installation & Operation Manual

Layout & Fitting

1. Keep the deck clear between windlass and bow roller; bow roller with a central groove for the chain; provide a chain stopper, snubber or cleat. Use a chain guide if the chain could run against the deckplate.
2. Self-launching anchor that fits the roller and free falls immediately; swivel between anchor and chain; at least three links of chain exposed when the anchor is docked.
3. Clearances: at least 150 mm (6") under the motor with all the rode in the locker, and at least 150 mm (6") from the windlass centreline to the rear bulkhead of the locker. Leave room to swing the crank handle; align with the bow roller within ±5° (Figure 13).
4. Templates at the back of the manual: decks 12 mm (½") or LESS – standard template (Ø 45mm hole); decks 12 mm or MORE (up to 65 mm, 2 1/4") – template with the performance plate (Ø100 mm hole). Print at 100% and check the drawing dimensions before cutting.
5. Mark and drill the bolt holes; hole saws for the spacer tube and chain pipe (on GRP run the drill in reverse first); seal GRP or wooden edges with epoxy.
6. Seal to the deck with the gasket (non-conductive gasket, insulators and fibre washers on aluminium boats); nuts tightened progressively and evenly, no power tools.
7. Grease the shaft, fit gearbox/motor to the bottom of the spacer tube with the motor away from the incoming rode, hand tighten the plastic locknut; drainage slot lowest if the unit can tilt.
8. Rotate the shaft (or crank) to align the keyways, insert the key, fit the quick-release clip with eyelets down and away from the keyway. Hold the lower motor nut while tightening the upper.
9. Shaft and bronze clutch cones MUST be coated in Shell Nautilus NLG12 Marine Grease, Castrol Boating Grease, Valvoline Val Plex EP or equivalent. On a sloping or curved deck use a mounting pad.

Wiring

• Solenoid pack dry and close to the windlass (not in the chain locker); circuit breaker/isolator no further than 1.8 m (6 ft) from the battery, dry and accessible; remote panel where the operator sees the windlass, terminals in a dry area; optional footswitches at least 500 mm (20") away.
• Schematics in the manual: Freedom 500 permanent magnet motor with P100711 or P100715 solenoid pack; Freedom 800 series wound motor with P19045/6 solenoid pack. Install to USCG, ABYC, NMMA or local rules.

Rope Splicing

• Splicing rope to chain must be done properly for windlass life and crew safety; if you are not experienced with a marlinspike or fid, get an experienced person or a rigger to do it.
• 3-strand: lay out and tape the strands, pass the outer strands down through the link and the inner strand up through the link and back under itself; cut and seal the ends with a hot knife.
• 8-plait: lay out and tape the strands, pass the top 2 pairs down through the link and the bottom 2 pairs up; cut and seal with a hot knife.

Anchoring

• Loading the rode: loosen the clutch nut with the crank handle, double over about 150 mm (6") of rope and feed it through the rope/chain hole, turn the windlass by hand (handle in the outer bi-square), tighten the clutch nut (not over tight) and make the end fast to an eyebolt; keep more than 150 mm (6") between the stowed rode and the motor.
• Lowering / raising: motor(s) running, isolator “On”, toggle down or up (or footswitch). Motor up to the anchor and bring the last metre (36") in very slowly; set the clutch nut so it slips a little when docking the anchor.
• Free fall: stand clear, loosen the clutch nut slowly anticlockwise with the crank handle; tightening clockwise controls the descent.
• Manual recovery: tie off the rode, loosen the clutch, then crank clockwise in the outer bi-square. There is no self-locking mechanism: cleat the rode before removing the handle and re-tighten the clutch nut.

• Maximum pull must be at least three times the combined weight of anchor and chain; correct chain fit to the chainwheel is essential.
• Run the engine above idle while raising; motor up to the anchor; never break out a fouled anchor or haul the boat with the windlass; never use it as a bollard or to haul a person up a mast.
• Tie the anchor down when under way; turn the breaker/isolator off when not in use; tie the bitter end to a secure fixture in the locker.
• Do not switch directly from one direction to the other. The system protects against excessive current and short circuit, not against heat build up: let the motor cool.

Capstan (capstan models)

• A footswitch is highly recommended. Secure the anchor, turn the clutch nut anticlockwise until rotation stops so the chainwheel stays still.
• Three turns clockwise on the drum, hold the tail and press “Up”; more load on the tail hauls faster, extra turns grip more.
• Do not touch the footswitch while adding turns, keep fingers clear, and never use so many turns that easing the tail will not let the rope slip.

Schedule

• Gearbox oil: 65 ml (2 fl oz) SAE 90 (e.g. Shell Omala 320, Castrol Alpha SP320); check the level every six months at the sight glass.
• Main shaft, bearing and clutch: lithium or lithium complex marine grease (Duckhams Keenol, Castrol LMX); no soap or mineral based grease. Grease motor face, gearbox lugs, spacer tube, gearbox thread, shaft and clutch cone faces; coat under-deck parts with the spray provided.
• Rope: rinse regularly; soak a day a year in cool water and fabric conditioner; swap end-for-end and re-splice when worn; lay it out straight to remove twists.

Pressure Arm & Faults

1. Check the pressure arm about every season (spare supplied; replacement kit P100019). Remove anchor and chain (tie on a messenger), the screw and washer, clutch nut and tab washer.
2. Hold the pressure arm back with a thin metal strip and rotate the chainwheel assembly anticlockwise while lifting it off; remove arm and clip.
3. Clear the pivot hole with a 2.5 mm (1/8") drill, fit the new arm with its lug in the deckplate recess, new insulator tube and clip.
4. Refit the chainwheel with the stripper recess on the deckplate lug, then tab washer (tab down – not on capstan models), clutch nut, washer and screw.

• Does not operate: breaker on; connections at panel, footswitch, breaker, solenoid, motor; battery; solenoid click.
• Motor runs, chainwheel still: clutch nut too loose, jammed chainwheel, missing shaft key, gearbox damage, motor drive pin.
• Rope slips: wrong rope, fouled rode, twists in the chain pipe, worn rope or splice, worn/missing pressure arm, stiff rope, overfull locker, rough deck hole, twisting chain (fit a swivel).