Maxwell RC6 & VWRC6 Windlass — Owner's Manual

Location & Fitting

1. In the box: clutch handle (Allen key), solenoid, deckplate gasket, deck cut-out details (rear of manual), small parts, windlass.
2. Plan the location: rode feeds correctly, flat deck (plinth if not), avoid bulkheads, wiring and piping, strong enough mounting area, at least 200mm (8") unobstructed fall into the locker from the lowest part of the windlass.
3. Use the deck cut-out template (part no. 7262; RC6 and VWRC6 versions in the PDF): check the scale, align the gypsy with the bow roller and cut the holes in order (A to D for RC6, A to C for VWRC6). The template includes the cut-out for the chain counter.
4. Seal hole edges with epoxy (not for steel or aluminium) and seal the windlass to the deck with the gasket supplied; on aluminium or steel boats insulate the deckplate assembly with the plastic gasket (7319).
5. Lower the deckplate into place and tighten the nuts progressively and evenly; no power tools. Use a non-acid cure flexible sealant, never a permanent adhesive.
6. Hole saw recommended (a jigsaw also works); on GRP run the drill in reverse first to reduce gel coat chipping. A ‘dry’ motor location (e.g. forward berth) needs extra measures against leaks.

Electrical

• Wiring by qualified technicians to USCG, ABYC, NMMA, CE requirements. A circuit breaker/isolator is required; solenoid pack and up/down control switch recommended.
• Breaker/isolator no further than 1.8 m (6 ft) from the battery, accessible and dry; solenoid pack dry and close to the windlass, not in the locker.
• Footswitch approximately 500 mm (20") from the windlass, arrow showing the direction; up/down switch where the operator can see the windlass.
• Hold the lower motor nut (A1) while tightening the upper nut (B1). Ring terminals, heat shrink and chafe protection through bulkheads.
• RC6/VWRC6 use a permanent magnet motor. Swapping F1 and F2, or connections 1 and 3 on the solenoid box, reverses rotation: check before fitting chain or rope.

Operation

• Lowering / raising: tighten the clutch clockwise with the clutch handle only enough to pull up the anchor (over-tightening can damage the motor when docking), remove the handle and use the up/down switch or footswitches.
• Tie off on a chain stopper, snubber or cleat; motor up to the anchor and bring in the last meter (3') slowly. Set the clutch to slip slightly when docking the anchor; use a tensioner or snubber, not the windlass, to hold the anchor in the roller.
• Free fall: loosen the clutch nut slowly anticlockwise; turning it clockwise controls the descent. Never let the chainwheel free-wheel uncontrolled.
• Never reverse before the windlass stops; run the engine to keep the charging system on.

Maintenance

• Main shaft, bearing and clutch surfaces: lithium complex grease, NLGI No.1 to No.3. Never wrap the motor in grease cloth.

Troubleshooting

• Does not operate: breaker/isolator on; connections; battery; solenoid clicks.
• Motor runs, chainwheel does not turn: clutch nut too loose; chainwheel jammed; noise or rough running means gearbox damage.
• Rope slips: wrong rope, fouling, twists in the chain pipe, worn or stiff rope, full locker, worn splice, rough deck hole, twisting chain (fit a swivel).
• Runs slowly: cable too small, low battery voltage, worn brushes, loose or dirty connections.