INSTALLATION MANUAL

Installing the PSS Type B shaft seal on 4" to 6" (100mm to 150mm) shafts: component list, step-by-step installation and bellows compression, water supply, break-in, troubleshooting and inspection intervals.

DocumentPSS Type B Shaft Seal Installation Instructions
FormatPDF · 8 pages · 0.7 MB
LanguageEnglish
PSS Type B Shaft Seal — Installation Instructions

Before You Start

The PSS (Packless Sealing System) is a through-hull fitting. It must be installed by a qualified professional with the boat out of the water.

  • If the transmission is removed, or the boat is launched without one, secure the shaft so the PSS stays in its normal compressed mode.
  • No oil, grease (petroleum products) or silicone products at any time during installation; lubricate the rotor o-rings with soap and water.
  • Keep the seal area clean and do not damage or scratch the carbon face or the stainless steel rotor face while unpacking, handling or installing.
  • Do not over-tighten hose barb fittings; do not use sealant on the bellow-to-stern tube joint or on hose-to-hose barb joints.
  • Do not slide the aft bellow cuff too far over the stern tube: its leading edge can damage the inner ribs and limit bellow travel.
  • Vent line (boats under 12 knots): no loop at the top end of the hose, which could promote a siphon.
  • The shaft should be near centred and run parallel to the shaft log. Do not run the seal dry. Not for submarine vehicles.
  • Keep petroleum-based liquids and corrosive materials away from the PSS (e.g. during maintenance or winterizing). No ozone generators aboard; sulfuric acid vapours from non-sealed batteries also speed up bellow deterioration.

Type B Component List

PSS Type B shaft seal component drawing, items 1 to 9

No. Component
1 Clamp collar
2 Rotor
3 Nitrile o-rings
4 Set screws
5 Hose barb
6 Carbon stator
7 Clamps
8 Steel hoops
9 Bellow

Installation Instructions

  1. Unbolt the shaft coupling from the transmission coupling.
  2. Remove the shaft coupling from the shaft.
  3. Remove the old stuffing box and all attached fittings. Attachments vary on these large shafts: confirm the PSS requirement at the stern tube end with your PSS dealer beforehand.
  4. Clean the shaft with very fine sand paper or emery paper (400 to 600 grit), especially the keyway, so no burr or sharp edge can tear the o-rings.
  5. Slide the open end of the bellow and two hose clamps over the shaft log. The carbon flange comes attached to the bellow by 2 T-bolt clamps.
  6. Slide the stainless steel rotor onto the shaft using only a water-soluble lubricant such as dish soap (no grease or oil). Check the o-rings sit in the rotor grooves (spare o-rings are provided) and that the locking clamp collar is not tightened to the rotor.
  7. Re-attach the shaft to the coupling and the coupling to the engine per the manufacturer's recommendations.
  8. Position the bellow on the stern tube with the carbon centred on the shaft. The forward end of the stern tube must not extend beyond the aft cuff of the bellow. Clamp the cuff with the two stainless steel T-bolt hose clamps.
  9. Slide the rotor (side with drilled holes towards the engine) until it just touches the carbon flange, and mark this "no load" position on the shaft just in front of the rotor.
  10. Slide the rotor further to compress the bellow 1" from the no load mark. The bellows are stiff and a special tool may be needed, but it must never touch the seal faces. Bolts (3/8" x 16) threaded into the holes on the rotor O.D. make a handle. If the rotor slides back, use the provided set screw in the one hole tapped through to the bore to hold it while fitting the clamp, then back it off once the clamp screws are snug.
  11. Align the drilled and tapped holes of the clamp assembly with the holes in the face of the rotor.
  12. Fit the clamp assembly to the shaft in front of the rotor with the driver screws engaged in the rotor face holes, and secure it.
  13. Check the rotor runs true with a dial indicator: .002" is acceptable. Correct with the locking assembly and a mallet.
  14. Plumb water to the two hose barb fittings to cool and lubricate the seal: this flow is required, from the engine raw water system, a pump or a scoop, at a maximum of 10 PSI. With a shaft bearing in the stern tube limiting water exhaust, the second barb may be vented overboard; on twin screws without a stern tube bearing it can serve as a jumper between engines. Follow the rules of underwater plumbing.

Compression: 1" is an average load and may vary with motor mounts and shaft misalignment; up to 1½" can be applied if necessary.

Break-in

  • The carbon flange polishes the mating face of the rotor: on average about one (1) hour of running.
  • Expect a very fine mist, sometimes with black dust, at high RPM, and possibly a few drops of water.
  • The period varies with each installation but should not exceed 100 hours.

Troubleshooting

  • High-pitched squeal: the seal may not be getting water; correct the plumbing. If it has run dry, the rotor and carbon faces may be very hot.
  • Spray or mist at speed after break-in: add ⅛" more bellow compression with the rotor and repeat until it stops; check the rotor face run out is less than .002.
  • Dripping at rest: foreign material between rotor and carbon. Carefully work a clean rag around between the faces (with the boat afloat some water will come in and flush the faces), remove it and the leak should stop.

Inspection & Maintenance

  • Inspect the bellows at least every 6 months for cracks, splits, tears or brittleness, and replace at any sign of deterioration. Replace the bellow at least every eight (8) years regardless of condition.
  • Inspect the stainless steel hose barb fittings every 6 months for corrosion.
  • If the boat sits idle for a long time (generally 3 months or more), it may be necessary to move the carbon face back to let a small amount of water in.
  • Limited warranty: three (3) years from first use or shipment, whichever comes first, to the original purchaser, through an authorized PSS dealer with dated proof of purchase.

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