Quick BTR QSY Series Retractable Thrusters — Installation & User's Manual

Technical Data

All models: 2 counter-rotating technopolymer propellers. The same cable section is given for all three length bands. L = positive cable + negative cable.

In the Box and Tools

• Supplied: retractable thruster, O-ring, hinge, hatch bracket, steel wire rope, installation and user's manual, warranty conditions.
• Not included: TCD thruster controls, TSC integrated line switch control, TMS line switch, PSS parallel battery switch, TFH fuse holder.
• Tools: Phillips screwdriver, wire cutters, drill with Ø 8.5 mm bit, 2.5 mm Allen key (plus 10 mm on 250/300), 8 mm and 13 mm spanners (plus 17 mm on 250/300), hole saw Ø 35 mm (185), Ø 46 mm (250) or Ø 53 mm (300).

Counter Flange and Hatch

The retractable unit is sold separately from its counter flange (stainless steel, aluminium alloy or GRP). On GRP hulls the counter flange is laminated in; on aluminium or steel hulls it is welded. Motor, gearbox and linkages come pre-assembled on the GRP structure. Hull work is for a skilled professional; consult the builder or a naval architect about extra beams or supports.

Position

• Tunnel as low as possible to avoid cavitation (minimum 0.75 times the tunnel diameter below the waterline); the further from the barycentre, the more thrust around it.
• Place the unit so the hatch is clear of the boat's driving cone in both directions of travel.
• On catamarans the tunnel axes must not be aligned or directly opposed; keep the angle to a minimum.

Counter Flange

1. Protect the O-ring seal seat with gummed paper tape until the thruster is fitted.
2. Mark and shape the centre of the four indicated sides of the counter flange to the curve of the hull (heights h and HT below), until all four sides sit on the hull.
3. Mark the inner perimeter on the hull, mark the cutting area (A–D below) and cut the opening.
4. Align the counter flange with the opening, check the four heights, then laminate it in with structural glue and GRP layers (or weld it on metal hulls). Build a sturdy stop round the whole opening for the hatch to close against.

Closing Hatch

• Make the hatch with 3 to 5 mm clearance on all sides, internal walls inclined at 45° (especially on the hinge side): contacts that are too tight damage the whole movement system.
• Hull and hatch surfaces must be level for the hinge to open correctly. The hatch must have no hollow areas or non-structural infill where the hinge and bracket are fixed.
• Fit the angle bracket with structural glue, then with 3 M8 screws or resin. Fix the hinge to the bracket with the central screw only, position hinge and hatch bracket, mark, drill Ø 8.5 mm and fix with suitable stainless screws; adjust the central screw so the hatch opens unhindered; then add the other two M8 screws.

Fitting and Adjustment

Fitting the Unit

1. Remove the protective tape, check the O-ring seat is clean and undamaged, and seat the O-ring on the counter flange.
2. Fit the retractable thruster, grease the bolt threads with marine grease and tighten the counter flange screws to 15Nm, little by little in a cross pattern.
3. After about a week, re-check the screws to allow for the O-ring settling.

Motor

• BTR QSY 185: fix the flange to the chassis with four M10x40 screws and growers, fit the key and insert the adapter shaft into the chassis, fit the second key on the synchronous motor shaft and secure the motor with 4 screws (M8x25) and 4 growers.
• BTR QSY 250/300: grease the drive shaft, check the key, insert the motor into the chassis and secure it with the 4 screws and 4 growers supplied.

Mechanical Check and Hatch Cable

• Unit not powered: remove the ring and pin and release the actuator from the lever. The thruster drops out under its own weight: keep everyone clear. Check it opens and closes smoothly.
• Hatch cable: one end into the hatch bracket, run it under the guide on the tunnel, hook the ends to the two springs on the tilting body; check again that the system opens and closes freely.

Adjustment (RTC R1 Board)

1. Qualified personnel only – moving parts. Check all electrical connections and remove the RTC R1 board cover.
2. Manual mode: hold both UP and DOWN while powering the board until the green POWER LED flashes fast, then release.
3. Press DOWN until the actuator can be hooked to the lever; DOWN opens the unit until the limit switch trips and the STATUS LED turns green. Check the CV joint is straight, between -5° and +5°.
4. Press UP to check hatch closing: at the limit switch the STATUS LED turns red. Closing is factory-set.
5. Limit switches FC1 (maximum closing) and FC2 (maximum opening) sit inside the actuator side door: loosen the fixing screw, slide, retighten. The cam must always stay between them.
6. Disconnect power for at least five seconds, reconnect, open with a TCD control and close again; the red ERROR LED must stay off.
7. End-of-stroke cables: open the hatch fully, cut the power to lock it, fit both cables, tension both springs to the same length, tighten the cable stops (2.5 mm Allen key) and locknuts (8 mm spanner) and trim about 20 mm beyond the stop. Power up (the unit closes) and cycle the hatch a few times.

RTC R1 Settings and Signals

Dip-Switches

Factory setting: 1 = OFF, 2 = OFF, 3 = OFF, 4 = OFF.

Actuator Current Selector

Set the selector with the board unpowered; the new value applies at the next power-up. Too low a limit can trip the actuator thermal cut-outs with error 1 or 7.

LEDs

ERROR LED (Red) – Number of Flashes

Spare Parts

The manual also gives numbered component lists, exploded views and dimension drawings for each size (PDF).