Quick CLG DLT Underwater Lights — User Manual

Position

• At least 150-250 mm below the waterline with the boat at minimum load; the lens always fully submerged and never on planing surfaces (high-pressure water can damage it).
• Leave at least 200 mm clear around the product's overall dimensions (older edition: 150 mm), allowing for light-body replacement; the inboard part must be dry.
• Keep away from temperatures above 150 °F (65 °C), hot engine parts and exhaust. Hull thickness max 78 mm.
• Installation is the boatyard's responsibility: use a skilled professional and consult the builder or naval architect. The current edition also states an 89 mm hole for fibreglass or wooden hulls (as printed; the procedure uses a Ø 20 mm hull hole).

Drilling

• Tools: drill, 3 mm bit, 20 mm bit/hole saw, 38 mm hole saw (cored hull); goggles, dust mask, sandpaper, mild detergent or alcohol, marine sealant, antifouling suitable for stainless steel.
• Cored hull: 3 mm pilot from inside; 20 mm hole through the outer skin only, from outside; 38 mm hole from inside through inner skin and core without touching the outer skin; remove the plug, sand, rebuild the hole with resin-soaked glass layers to seal and reinforce the core; sand and clean.
• Single-layer fibreglass or metal hull: 3 mm pilot from inside, then 20 mm from outside; clean for sealant adhesion.
• A pilot hole in the wrong place: tape it outside and fill with epoxy resin.

Fitting the Light

1. Apply plenty of marine sealant round the frame to form continuous rings in the grooves.
2. From outside, pass the cable and thru-hull into the hole; align using the logo printed on the glass for best output.
3. Press and turn the frame to spread the sealant until it comes out behind.
4. Fit the 3 galvanic isolators in the light body holes and fix with the 3 self-tapping screws.
5. Check sealant has squeezed out all round the frame and wipe the excess; if not, repeat the installation. Let it cure.
6. Inside, connect the yellow/green ground cable to the anode protection system; from outside, check continuity between frame and sacrificial anode.
7. Antifouling for stainless steel on the exposed metal frame; the lens comes masked with a film, removed once the paint has dried.

Wiring

• Each DLT QC is fed through a junction box with internal driver on a two-wire power bus from a QCC-PLT 300 (not included).
• One QCC-PLT 300 drives up to 5 DLT 30 12V, 10 DLT 30 24V or 5 DLT 60 24V.
• Control by QCC-LCS TS WIFI or any DMX512 controller; without the QCC-LCS each light uses 4 DMX addresses (two-colour: 2 groups of 2; single-colour: 4 unique addresses). Or by normally open push-buttons on the QCC-PLT 300.
• Never connect directly to AC mains (220VAC) or directly to the boat's DC system; junction boxes away from flammable vapours; power off before connecting or soldering.
• Fuse the whole system and each light individually; check the battery bank can carry the total load; never connect or disconnect lights live; check all connections before relaunching.