Selden Furling Mast Type RA — Owner's Manual

The RA Furling Mast

Discontinued model — documents and spare parts as printed. Spare parts list: see the RB/RC page (RA–RC list).

A main reefing and furling system whose roller mechanism is based on Furlex. The halyard swivel bearing spreads load over the whole ball race; the whole reefing mechanism can be removed for service, and all screws go into stainless inserts. An extra luff groove takes a storm trysail, spare main or a rope-luff foresail. Components: luff extrusion in the sail compartment, cable conduit, reefing winch and roller mechanism at the foot, upper and lower greasing holes, sail feeder, clew outhaul car, halyard swivel, masthead bearing, 2:1 topping lift and an extra sheave box for a furling-jib halyard.

Luff Extrusion Tension

Correctly tensioned at manufacture and normally needs no adjustment; re-tension only if it seems slack. Do not over-tension – you may overload the system.

1. Mainsail removed. Lift off the covers: press in one of the buttons and push, lift the opposite end and pull.
2. Loosen the lock screw enough to free the locking sleeve.
3. Push the locking sleeve up level with the upper opening; put in your left hand and grip it firmly.
4. Turn the tensioning screw with a winch handle in the drive unit (reefing winch). When the locking sleeve slips in your hand, the luff extrusion is acceptably tensioned.
5. Adjust the turn so the locking sleeve can be drawn down over the bottom of the luff extrusion.
6. Pull the locking sleeve down to the locking position.
7. Tighten the lock screw to hold it.

Operating Lines

• Reef with a reefing line plus the outhaul, from the cockpit or at the mast (then also lead the outhaul to the boom or mast near the gooseneck).
• From the cockpit: an endless reefing loop on a self-tailing winch, with surplus length to lift it off the winch and the tail belayed on a cleat or clam cleat (aluminium clam cleats CL 238 with spring gate shown). Use 10 mm diameter double-plaited line for the loop. A rope-stopper must be one you can open to feed a pre-spliced loop.
• Set the reefing winch to "free" when reefing from the cockpit. The mast turning block has removable sheaves and a slit so a pre-spliced loop fits; use these turning blocks for reefing control lines only. Deck lead blocks with removable sheaves: 538-809-01 (three sheaves) or 538-810-01 (4 sheaves). Alternative clew-outhaul lead: part no. 508-124.
• Outhaul: self-tailing winch and a stopper that allows controlled paying out. Topping lift and kicker best led to the cockpit on stoppers; topping lift with a figure-of-eight stopper knot where it leaves the boom, set so the boom can't drop below its lowest necessary level (not needed with a rod kicker).
• Because the endless line runs through the same turning block both ways, watch for chafe and friction against the kicker's mast attachment.

Operation

Sail Requirements & Mast Notes

• Luff must fold easily round the extrusion – no heavy cloth in the luff. Luff foam may be used but no closer than 50 mm (2") to the luff edge.
• Luff tape max 5 mm (13/64"), max 4 mm hard line. Head and tack tapes soft, no metal eyelets. Clew cringle max 14 mm thick to fit the outhaul block.
• Spare main: the sail groove on the aft face of the mast takes a reserve sail; a Furlex-type foresail with luff tape can be used.
• Anti-vibration strip (optional): hoisted in the spare groove, it stops the longitudinal oscillation (3–6 cycles per second in 4–12 knots abeam) and reduces wind noise.
• Cables: every extrusion has a cable conduit (through to the foot on keel-stepped masts) with a factory messenger – always pull a new messenger through with any cable. Cables enter by the head box (leave them long enough to lift the head box without disconnecting) and exit in the heel casting. Retro-fitted cables at the front of the mast go through the halyard chamber, pulled tight.

Maintenance & Dismantling

• At least once a year grease all bearings with Selden grease 312-501 (a tube comes with the mast): halyard swivel (best when opposite the sail-feed inspection hole); upper bearing of the roller mechanism (remove the upper oval plug, lift the rubber boot); bevel gears and ball bearing (lower oval plug level with the reefing winch).
• If the gear gets stiff after several years, dismantle, clean out old grease and re-lubricate.

Remember: roll the sail onto the starboard side (winch clockwise), keep the leech tight with the topping lift, lock the winch in heavy wind and when leaving the boat, and keep a stopper knot in the topping lift.