Selden Conversion of Kemp Reefin to Furlin RB Mk2 — Instructions

Which Masts This Covers

Discontinued model – documents and spare parts as printed.

Converts Kemp Reefin operating systems on mast sections R232/126 and R260/136 to the Furlin RB Mk2 drive. These are identified by a long, smooth internal vertical rope drum, a reefline roller to port of the centre line, and a separate rectangular access panel below the vertical roller.

The existing vertical rope drum is replaced by the current drive gearbox on a conversion plate. The asymmetric luffspar is kept, joined by a tensioner unit to a new tack hook assembly. Selden strongly recommends doing it with the mast ashore on trestles.

Removing the Kemp Drum

1. Remove the sail.
2. Remove the secondary roller. Pull the green reefline to rotate the spar, then cut the line close to the drum.
3. Pencil-mark the present tack hook height on the mast.
4. Remove the aluminium access cover below the rope drum; loosen the lock screw and remove the spar tension nut.
5. Remove the mast heel.
6. Remove the 8 side bearing locating screws and slide the drum down and out (remove kicker bracket and turning blocks if necessary).
7. Remove the headbox top nuts, free any cables and withdraw the headbox enough to expose the luffspar. Cut the luffspar where it enters the hanging bearing, remove the short offcut without disturbing the top cross bolt, and pencil-mark "top of luffspar" on the mast.

Fitting the RB Mk2 Drive

1. Cut a second, identical oval access hole in the port mast wall, its lower edge 435mm above the lower edge of the existing one.
2. Per drawing GE 075, enlarge the cut-out below the gooseneck bracket and cut two port-side access/grease holes.
3. Offer up the conversion plate/gearbox: its top edge 75mm below the gooseneck bracket base. Locate the hole for the gearbox forward arm on the centre line of the sail compartment forward wall, taking care not to damage halyards.
4. Temporarily connect the new tack hook assembly to the gearbox drive eye (tubular toggle and clevis pin) and check the tack hook height.
5. Remove the tack hook assembly and the gearbox from the plate.
6. Using the cover plate as a template, drill 26 x Ø6.5mm rivet holes and rivet the plate on.
7. Slide the luffspar down, cut it 50mm below the base of the old tack hook casting, drill off the 3 rivet heads and remove the lower plastic cover and tack hook.
8. Slide the adjuster cover onto the luffspar. Using the 540-133 stainless half rigging screw as a guide, drill 4 x Ø4.9mm holes; coat 540-133 with mastic and rivet it in place.
9. Slide the luffspar up until its new lower end is level with the top of the lower oval hole; slide in the new tack hook assembly (not yet connected).
10. Connect the gearbox drive eye to the tubular toggle with the clevis pin and screw the gearbox in. Grease the thread, join the two luffspar sections at the adjuster and screw in by 20mm only.
11. Mark the luffspar at the "top of luffspar" mark, disconnect, slide it up clear of the mast top and cut at the mark.
12. Prepare the luffspar top using the top bearing as a pattern (drill and trim the plastic sheath like the old offcut) and connect.
13. Slide the upper luffspar down, reconnect the adjuster and position the headbox on its top bolts; refit the nuts.
14. Slide the halyard swivel to half mast height.
15. Hold the upper luffspar and rotate the line driver to tension the spar, checking at the masthead until the mid section just holds itself clear of the sail compartment wall. Secure the adjuster cover.
16. Step the mast, hoist the swivel on a retrieval line, grasp the spar through the upper access hole and shake: if it is hard to make it touch the compartment sides, tension is correct.
17. Fit the oval access hole and grease hole covers.
18. Revise the deck layout for the endless reefline: the line driver turns clockwise (viewed from aft) when reefing.
19. Make an endless splice in a new Ø10mm reefline.