Selden Single Line Reef Conversion Kit — Instructions
How to convert a Seldén slab-reefing boom to single line reef (from 2008 and up to 2007 booms), set the reefing lines, reef, and change the reef line blocks.
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Kit Contents & Reefing Limits (booms from 2008)
Kit: 2 blue- and red-flecked lines, length ~ E; 2 blue- and red-flecked lines, blue ~ 4x E and red ~ 6x E; 2 shackles; 2 SLR blocks; 1 long shaft with 2 sheaves; 2 short shafts with 2+2 sheaves; 2 black retaining plugs.
Tools: pilot lines, knife, fabric tape, Phillips or Torx screwdriver, adjustable wrench or shackle opener, felt pen, wire of boom length + 0.5 m, trestles and clamp.
Max SLR reef 2 height is limited by car travel inside the boom; reef 1 should not exceed 60% of the reef 2 value.
| Reefing slide | Boom profile | Max reefing height reef 2 | A (mm) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 511-636-01 (1 slide, 25 mm track) | B135 / B152 / B171 | E-650 / E-750 / E-850 | 200 / 200 / 250 | Ask us to source it → |
| 511-636-02 (2-slide kit, 25 mm track) | B135 / B152 / B171 | E-650 / E-750 / E-850 | 200 / 200 / 250 | Ask us to source it → |
| 511-637-01 (1 slide, 32 mm track) | B200 / B250 | E-950 / E-1100 | 350 / 400 | View slide → |
| 511-637-02 (2-slide kit, 32 mm track) | B200 / B250 | E-950 / E-1100 | 350 / 400 | View slide → |
Reef 1: blue-flecked lines, starboard outer boom slots. Reef 2: red-flecked lines, port outer boom slots.
Preparing the Boom
- Boom on two trestles, sail groove up, clamped.
- Remove the outboard end fitting (Phillips or Torx).
- Pull the reefing lines out of the end fitting and tape them to the outside of the boom.
- Feed the wire through the starboard outer sheave slot on top of the inboard end fitting and along the boom, not twisted round any reefing lines.
- Tie and tape a pilot line to the wire and pull it through; tape it at both ends. Repeat on port.
- Fit the long shaft with its two sheaves in the forward upper space of the inboard end fitting; secure with the black retaining plug. Check the pilot lines run round their sheaves.
- Fit the short shafts and sheaves in the outboard end-fitting flanges (locked by the boom extrusion when refitted).
Fitting the Reefing Lines
- The old lines are too short: join the new long lines to them at the inboard end (short messenger, half hitches, tape) and pull through.
- SLR blocks are symmetric. Arrow up on the starboard side: feed the short blue line (reef 1) in from the front through the central hole, turn it forward inside and tie an overhand knot that sits in the D-shaped recess.
- Tie the starboard pilot line to the free end and pull it round the sheave; stopper knot. Repeat on port with the short red line (reef 2).
- Lead the aft end of the starboard long line up through the sheaves, forward and up through the SLR block, then aft out through the starboard end slot; stopper knot.
- Push the SLR block into the boom while pulling the short line forward; the long line must not be trapped between car and boom wall. Repeat on port.
- Refit the end fitting, screws greased with vaseline or similar.
Adjusting the Reefing Lines
- Secure the reefing line in the cockpit or at the inboard end fitting.
- Pull it until the SLR block stops at the outer end fitting; secure temporarily.
- Tension the line and mark it with a felt pen where it exits the top of the inboard end fitting.
- Free it and pull out about 1 m.
- Make a second mark A mm nearer the SLR block (A from table 1).
- Tie on the shackle at the second mark with the knot shown; pull hard – mark A just visible below the knot.
Finishing on Board
- Shackle the reefing lines to their sides of the sail.
- Feed the slack lines through the reef cringles and secure round the boom. A sail with a footrope needs cringles or slits; a loose-footed sail can use a slide in the underside track to hold the line in place.
- Hoist and check some slack in the front reefing lines.
- Test each reef; when fully tensioned, mark the main halyard with a sewn whipping for each reef at a reference point (e.g. outside the clutch).
- Cut surplus line, melt or whip the ends; leave a 30 mm tail under the shackle knot.
- Support the boom with a topping lift or rigid kicker so it cannot drop into the cockpit when reefing.
The space between boom sides and the internal running blocks is limited: new fittings, pop rivets or screws must not obstruct the blocks.
Reefing (595-664-SETF)
Taking in a reef
- Ease kicker and mainsheet; ease the halyard slightly more than the reef height (mark the halyard to make this easy).
- Haul in reef line #1 (white/blue) until luff and leech cringles are down at the boom.
- Tension the halyard, then mainsheet and kicker.
- Take up the slack in reef line #2 (white/red).
- Reef #2 is taken in the same way.
Shaking out
- With only reef 1 in, release reef line 2.
- Ease the kicker.
- Ease the reef line.
- Tension the halyard, then the kicker.
Do not mount fittings on the boom sides: their fasteners can stop the internal blocks.
Older Booms & Extra Documents
- Booms up to 2007 (595-965-E): same procedure; the kit has 2 SLR blocks, 2 single blocks and 2 sheaves with pin and circular clips.
- Short instruction (595-668-E): kit with 2 lines with an eye (~ E), 2 lines (~ 4x / 6x E), 2 shackles, 2 plate blocks, 2 single blocks, 2 sheaves with pin and circular clips.
- Changing the reef line blocks (595-706-E): undo the shackle knots, splice on messengers, remove the outboard end fitting, pull out the forward lines and old blocks, reeve the new block (locking rings bedded in their grooves), and refit with the anti-friction rollers.
- Sail details for booms 85/58, 86/59, 111/75, 128/90 (595-646-E): reef cringle offset F = 100 (85/58, 86/59), 120 (111/75), 120 (128/90). With a rodkicker fitted, a stopper knot on the kicker tackle stops the two tubes separating while reefing.
- Splice / doughnut position tag (595-108): illustrated tag only.
Mark distance A, older booms (595-668-E / 595-706-E)
| Section | A |
|---|---|
| 120/62 | 150 mm |
| 143/76 | 200 mm |
| 171/94 | 250 mm |
| 200/117 | 350 mm |
| 250/140 | 400 mm |
Need a part that isn't listed? Ask us to source it and quote the part number from the PDF.
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