INSTALLATION MANUAL

Specifications, cut-out drawings per mast section, gear conversion, motor and clutch installation, wiring, operation, manual drive and maintenance for the Selden SMF retrofit kit type RB on a manual furling mast.

DocumentSelden SMF Retrofit Kit Type RB Installation Manual
FormatPDF · 36 pages · 6.6 MB
LanguageEnglish
Selden SMF Retrofit Kit Type RB — Installation Manual

SMF Retrofit Kit Type RB

The kit (electric mast motor and clutch assembly) converts an existing manual line driver RB furling mast to Synchronized Main Furling. Mast sections: R232, R260, F228, F246, F265, F286, F305, F217, F234, F252. It works with the Selden Power Supply and SEL-Bus system and a Selden electric winch for synchronized outhaul (sold separately; order guide 597-283-E).

  • Kit parts: shaft assembly, furling gear bracket, line driver, safety plug, clutch shaft, clutch bracket, clutch plunger, motor brake, mast bushings (x3, individual size for each mast section), connection cables to the furling mast MCU (brown, grey, orange) 6mm², 5m.
  • The clutch plunger switches between MOTOR and MANUAL; in MANUAL a winch handle in the socket drives the gear. The manual gear must be on "FREE" when connected to the motor.
  • Mast ID is engraved port side at the bottom of the extrusion; motor part and serial numbers are on its aft side facing the sail groove. Quote all three in any support case.
  • Selden recommends dealers in its "Advanced technical installations" category for the retrofit.

Selden SMF retrofit kit type RB parts overview: mast motor, clutch, gear bracket and line driver

Turn off the power during installation and when not in use. Watch the whole furling process and stop at once if anything goes wrong. Keep hands clear of the sail groove and winches.

Technical Specification

Mast motor OUT IN
Total gear ratio 81:1 81:1
Peak torque 8Nm 89Nm
Low speed (max) 49 RPM 37 RPM
High speed (max) 74 RPM 74 RPM
Max power (full torque) 144W 600W
Full load current* 12V / 24V 12A / 5,5A 50A / 23A
Nominal current* 12V / 24V 12A / 5,5A 16A / 7,5A
  • *Consumption incl. MCU and PSU.
  • Synchronized winch, limited outhaul force (MAIN "OUT"): 1800N. On winch buttons "1" and "2" it runs as a standard winch, unlimited and unsynchronized.
  • Mast motor and clutch assembly: H 433 mm, W 102 mm, 5 kg; fits inside the mast section.

Installation Cut-Out Drawing per Mast Section

Mast section Cut-out drawing
R232 597-831
R260 597-832
F228 597-833
F246 597-834
F265 597-835
F286 597-836
F305 597-837
F217 597-838
F234 597-839
F252 597-840
  • Best done on an unstepped mast, installing through the lower end of the mast (option A). On a stepped or keel-stepped mast without free access to the gear, install through an extended furling gear cut-out (option B; the cut-out extension is only needed for option B).
  • Some masts are already prepared for a motor: with the extended gear bracket cut-out already made, skip option B step 1; with the extended gear shaft already fitted, skip the shaft change (steps 7–10 below).
  • Remove fittings that interfere with the fixing holes on port and starboard (winch handle pocket, cleats…). Routing the motor cables out of the mast is not covered: it depends on the mast and heel.
  • Tools: flat screwdriver, pop rivet gun, Torx and hex key sets, half-round file, hammer, punch, pliers, power drill with Ø4.2 and Ø6.4 bits and a pop-rivet bit, jigsaw, 24mm hole saw, M5 tap, wedges (included), ethanol, pencil, heat gun and shrink tube, tape measure, cleaning spirit, a line to lift the motor (option B), Selden grease 312-501 (included), locking adhesive 312-305 (included), medium-strength locking adhesive, WD-40 or similar.

Dismantling & Converting the Manual Gear

Release backstay tension if the mast is stepped.

  1. Remove the port-side access cover and grease plug.
  2. Unscrew the retainer screw and push the locking tube up above the sail feeder (a little lubricant at its top helps).
  3. Lock the tube up and stop the luff extrusion turning.
  4. Winch handle in the line driver, turn anti-clockwise until the luff extrusion is slack.
  5. Through the lower port greasing hole remove the split pin and clevis pin from the gear shaft adapter; keep them.
  6. Remove the screws and take the furling gear bracket off the mast (easing rig tension helps).
  7. Remove the rubber cover, noting quantity and position of washers and shims.
  8. Punch out the spring pins from the shaft top and vertical gear; remove the shaft, keeping balls, races and washers. Spring pins are not reused.
  9. Clean and grease the ball bearings (there should be 12 balls in each race; the grease holds them during assembly).
  10. Fit a new upper spring pin Ø6x40 on the new shaft (166-480-01), install it with bearings and washers, refit the bevel gear with its hole aligned and fit a new spring pin Ø8x45.
  11. Fit the new solid pin Ø8x29 at the lower end of the shaft, cleaned and set with the included locking adhesive 312-305, centred in the shaft.
  12. Refit the rubber cover.
  13. Replace the gear bracket label with the included electric furling mast label.
  14. Grease the gears.

Option A: Through the Mast End

  1. Remove the mast heel (deck-stepped) or masthead and luff extrusion (keel-stepped) for free access to the gear; don't twist halyards if working from the top.
  2. Drill the locating holes per the cut-out drawing: two port, one starboard. Vertical reference: centre of the lower screw hole of the gear cut-out. Horizontal reference: the B-line (vertical recess at the widest point). Check distances to the extrusion end on both sides; chamfer the holes.
  3. Prepare cable routing if needed (often through the mast heel).
  4. Refit the furling gear bracket with the shaft top engaging the adapter; grease the screws.
  5. Insert the clutch assembly with the clutch arm towards the sail groove (an M6x60 screw on the arm helps guide it).
  6. Insert the mast motor so the clutch top engages the gear shaft pin and the clutch bottom the top of the motor.
  7. Fix the motor with the included bushings and M10 screws, thicker flange edge aft (hold bushings with taped pliers). Check the clutch before using medium-strength locking adhesive.

Option B: Through the Gear Cut-Out

  1. Expand the gear cut-out exactly per the drawing; grind all edges. No sharp corners: they can start fatigue cracks.
  2. Drill and chamfer the locating holes as in option A.
  3. Open the profile with wedges on each side of the cut-out. On F228/F217 the kicker and/or boom bracket may need removing: ask an authorised Selden dealer.
  4. Undo the four top screws of the motor and remove the motor brake; tie a line to its lifting eye.
  5. Insert the motor assembly through the hole.
  6. Hold it temporarily with a bushing and screw in the lower port mast hole and the upper port motor hole (37mm below its final position); remove the wedges.
  7. Refit the motor brake through the cut-out (tightening torque=7Nm).
  8. Insert the clutch, arm towards the sail groove, on top of the motor.
  9. Refit the gear bracket, shaft top engaging the adapter.
  10. Hold the motor on its line, remove the temporary screw and move clutch and motor up to engage gear shaft pin and motor.
  11. Fix with bushings and M10 screws, thick flange aft; check the clutch before locking adhesive.

Clutch Adjustment

  1. On an unstepped mast push the clutch towards the motor to simulate its working position.
  2. Through the greasing hole check the clutch pins seat properly between motor, clutch and shaft pin.
  3. Adjust by lengthening or shortening the clutch shaft: remove split pin, washer, clevis pin and torque tube. One washer sits between torque tube and clutch shaft by default; add a second (WASHER Ø20/10.5-2 (M10) ST, in the misc pack) to lengthen 2mm, or remove it to shorten 2 mm. Reassemble.

Clutch Plunger & Bracket

  1. Push the clutch towards the motor (unstepped mast).
  2. Through the sail groove, mount the clutch plunger on the clutch lever with the screw and spring from the misc pack.
  3. Place the clutch bracket on the mast wall with the plunger in the lower "motor" position, as low as possible; mark the holes. In Manual mode the upper clutch pin must be fully disengaged from the clutch shaft.
  4. Drill and tap 2xM5 holes; fasten the bracket with locking adhesive.
  5. Refit the clutch screw with medium-strength locking adhesive, head aligned with the plunger.
  6. Refit clevis pin and split pin (open to min 20°) to fix the gear shaft to the adapter; re-tension the luff profile.
  7. Set the gear controller arm to FREE and put the plug in the winch socket; refit plugs and covers.
  8. Lead the motor cables out of the mast; refit the mast heel.

Connecting to the MCU

Connect the three control cables from the mast motor to the MCU "Furling mast" in the correct positions: L1 = Brown, L2 = Orange, L3 = Grey. Wrong positions can damage the mast motor and brake mechanism. Full MCU and network installation: manual 597-275-E.

Configuring the Buttons (in this order)

  1. Winch MCU to winch buttons: press the configuration button on the winch MCU, hold winch button 1 or 2 until the winch gives the start-up signal.
  2. Winch MCU to MAIN OUT (synchronized outhaul): press the winch MCU configuration button, hold MAIN OUT until the start-up signal.
  3. Furling mast MCU to MAIN OUT/IN: press the furling mast MCU configuration button, hold IN until the mast motor gives the start-up signal.

If the signal tone sounds at switch-on with no button pressed, switch off at once: push button cables from the SEL-Bus converter must be wired "normally open", not "normally closed".

Preparations Before Sailing

Type Luff extrusion tensioning torque Force (F) on a 10" winch handle
RB system 5 Nm 20 N
  • Stop the extrusion rotating and measure the torque with a torque wrench in the gear's winch handle socket, or a spring balance on an ordinary winch handle. Keep the mast straight. An untensioned or over-tensioned extrusion raises furling load and wear.
  • Always release the backstay before adjusting: tensioning with the backstay on can damage the extrusion joints when it is released.
  • Rig tuning: furling works best with limited pre-bend (595-540-E).
  • Outhaul car stop: too far aft keeps the foot tighter than the leech and can jam the sail at the masthead. Start with the stop 500 mm from the aft mast wall and adjust.
  • Outhaul routing: as low friction as possible; replace worn blocks. The winch force limit acts on line force at the winch, so friction reduces force at the clew and hurts synchronization.

Unfurling

Manual gear set to FREE, clutch plunger in the lower seat (MOTOR). Before furling: sail upwind, release a very tight backstay, adjust boom angle (leech tight, battens parallel to the mast), ease the main sheet.

  1. Put the outhaul on the synchronized electric winch.
  2. Press OUT: the winch gives a short warning signal before starting.
  3. Hold OUT and press the second button for more speed if wanted.
  4. Full sail: hold the button(s); the system recognises a fully unfurled sail and stops. Reduced sail: release when the sail is where you want it.
  5. Trim the outhaul with the winch buttons if needed (full winch power: take care).

The motor makes a short rotation after unfurling to engage the brake.

Furling

  1. Free the outhaul but keep it tensioned (about one turn on the winch). Press IN and ease the outhaul as the sail rolls in.
  2. Hold IN and press the second button for more speed.
  3. Release at the desired sail area or when fully furled.

The motor does NOT stop automatically when furling in. Run the last turns at low speed and watch the outhaul block so it is not pulled into the sail groove.

Without the synchronized winch: hold MAIN OUT and pull the outhaul by hand; the motor pauses if the outhaul is not pulled and turns when it detects pull. Releasing OUT engages the brake.

Disconnecting the Motor

  1. Turn power off. Wiggle the line driver by hand to take the initial stress off the clutch. Furling/reefing: controller to port ("in", ratchet engaged). Unfurling: controller on "free".
  2. Pull the clutch plunger out and up to the upper position: the motor is now disconnected.
  3. Furling/reefing: remove the safety plug from the winch socket and furl with a winch handle at the mast. Unfurling: pull the outhaul by hand or carefully use the electric winch.
  4. Remove the winch handle from the socket when done.

Do not leave a winch handle in the line driver when unfurling: it spins very quickly if the wind catches the sail. For frequent manual use a control line can be fitted as on any Selden manual gear.

Reconnecting the Motor

  1. Pull the clutch plunger out and down; if needed rotate the line driver until the clutch shaft connects to the motor.
  2. Put the furling gear in FREE mode (always FREE when motorised).
  3. Put the safety plug back into the winch socket.

Troubleshooting

Problem Cause Action
Mast motor stutters and unfurling does not work Connection cables wrongly installed in the MCU Correct the cable positions in the MCU (section 3.6)
Constant signal tone at power-on; or motor runs at power-on and stops when MAIN OUT/IN is pressed Push button cables wired "normally closed" Rewire to "normally open" (see push button sheet)
Synchronized unfurling not smooth / top of sail jamming Luff tension, rig tuning, outhaul car position, outhaul routing See Preparations Before Sailing
Unfurling unusually slow in cold conditions Cold motors Disconnect the mast motor from the manual gear, take the outhaul off the winch, idle-run the mast motor IN and the winch on high speed, minimum 30 sec each

For the Power Supply and SEL-Bus system itself see guide 597-275-E.

Service, Maintenance & Warranty

  • Keep the manual furling system serviced as per the furling mast manual.
  • Annually – lubricate the motor brake: through the sail groove remove the lubrication hole screw, apply WD-40 while turning the mast motor at least one turn, refit the screw.
  • Every 5th year: professional service of the mast motor by an authorised Selden dealer.
  • Warranty: 2 years, valid only if assembled, operated and maintained per this manual; void if repaired or modified by anyone other than Selden or its authorised dealers.
  • Dispose of as electrical and electronic equipment (WEEE), not household waste.

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