Lofrans Super Ercole Horizontal Windlass — Installation & User's Manual
INSTALLATION MANUAL
Performance data, gipsy and chain match, cable sizing, deck installation, operation, maintenance schedule, troubleshooting and the full parts lists (models A, B and C) for the Lofrans Super Ercole horizontal windlass, with its deck template.
DocumentLofrans Super Ercole Horizontal Windlass Installation & User's Manual
FormatPDF · 50 pages · 4.8 MB
LanguageEnglish
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This manual is split into 2 pages: Part 1 · Part 2 →
Technical Data
| 3500 W | 4000 W | 5500 W | 11CC (hydraulic) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vessel length, heavy duty | 95–120 ft | 100–125 ft | 105–135 ft | 105–135 ft |
| Vessel length, light duty | 110–125 ft | 115–130 ft | 130–150 ft | 130–150 ft |
| Power supply | 24 V | 230 V / 400 V | 230 V / 400 V | Hydraulic |
| Maximum linear pull | 5000 kg 11000 lb |
6000 kg 13200 lb |
7000 kg 15400 lb |
7000 kg 15400 lb |
| Maximum lift load | 2780 kg 6116 lb |
3000 kg 6600 lb |
3500 kg 7700 lb |
3500 kg 7700 lb |
| Max lift working load | 870 kg 1914 lb |
1430 kg 3146 lb |
1670 kg 3674 lb |
1670 kg 3674 lb |
| Current at working load | 190 A | N/A | N/A | N/A |
| Max line speed | 15 m/min 45 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
| Line speed at working load | 8 m/min 24 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
12 m/min 36 ft/min |
| Hydraulic pressure / flow | N/A | N/A | N/A | Min 170 – Max 200 bar Min 35 – Max 40 l/min |
Net weight with drum, electric models: model A 195 kg (429 lb), model B 235 kg (517 lb), model C 210 kg (462 lb). Hydraulic 11CC: model A 175 kg; in pounds model A 341 lb, model B 473 lb, model C 418 lb. The kilogram values for hydraulic models B and C are cut off in the table (as printed).
| Gipsy | Chain supported |
|---|---|
| 12 mm | 12 mm ISO; 13 DIN 766; 7/16" G4 |
| 13 DIN 764 | 13 DIN 764 |
| 14 mm | 14 mm, pitch 42 mm |
| 16 mm | 16 mm ISO |
| 16 DIN 766 | 16 mm DIN 766 |
| 18 mm | 18 mm ISO |
| 18 DIN 766 | 18 mm DIN 766 |
| 12,5 | 12,5 stud link |
| 14,5 | 14,5 stud link |
| 16 | 16 stud link |
| 17,5 | 17,5 stud link |
Rope: not supported (N/A on every gipsy).
Electrical System
| Model | Motor (W) | Voltage (V) | Contactor (A) | Cable 15–25 m | Cable 50–75 ft | Cable > 25 m | Cable > 75 ft |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Super Ercole | 3500 | 24 | 200 | 70 mm² | 00 AWG | 95 mm² | 000 AWG |
Cable lengths are the total run, positive plus negative.
- Control box (solenoids): in a dry place near the windlass.
- Circuit breakers: use the Lofrans breakers, chosen for their trip curve rather than a plain rating.
- Remote control panel: where the operator can see the windlass during the manoeuvre (deck, helm or cockpit), sealed so the terminals stay dry.
- The wiring diagrams are in the PDF.
Before You Drill
- In the box: windlass with motor/gearbox, remote control switch or reverser box, drilling template, handle, screws.
- Tools: drill, 10 mm bit for wood and steel, 10 mm, 13 mm and 17 mm hex keys.
- Bow roller height must keep the chain inclination below 90 degrees.
- The deck faces must be parallel; shim the difference if they are not.
- With all the chain stowed, leave at least 300 mm between the underside of the deck and the top of the heaped chain.
- Aluminium boats: insulate the windlass from the deck with a non-conductive gasket (not supplied), and insulate anchor and chain from the hull, including locker and fixings.
Deck Installation
- Lay the drilling template on deck, aligned with the bow.
- Mark and drill. Leave the hole edges sharp, but radius the forward edge of the chain holes at 45°.
- Set the upper part of the windlass on deck.
- Fit the chain stripper pipe so the stripper is aligned and 4–5 mm from the gipsy throat.
- Run the battery leads to the motor through the openings in the gearbox body.
- Seal the base to the deck with silicone.
- Deck template: it warns it may not print to scale. Print at 100% and check the printed dimensions before cutting.
Operation
Lowering
- Electrically: clutch tight, brake off, chain stoppers off; switch on the safety switch and press DOWN; then switch off and re-engage the stoppers.
- By gravity: clutch tight, stopper and brake off, then ease the clutch with the handle. Clockwise brakes the chain (to a full stop), anticlockwise lets it run. Make the chain fast to a strong point.
- A fully released clutch drops the anchor at high speed and can damage the hood and bow roller: control the speed.
- Wait for the windlass to stop before reversing direction.
Recovery, Override and Drum
- Breaker on, clutch tight, brake off, handle removed, stoppers off; press UP until the anchor seats in the bow roller; breaker off and chain on the stopper.
- Run the engine or generator while recovering rather than relying on the batteries alone.
- If the hydraulic-magnetic breaker trips on overload, reset it and wait some minutes before running again. It does not protect the motor from overheating on long runs.
- Manual override: clutch engaged, brake and stoppers off, handle in the hand-wheel, turn clockwise against the reducer spring.
- Warping drum: brake on and anchor secured, clutch off (drum turns independently of the gipsy), three turns clockwise, tail the rope and press UP; make the line fast on a bollard afterwards.
- Never use the windlass as a mooring point; hold the load on a chain stopper or strong point, and never put chain on the warping drum.
- Pay out so the chain lies on the seabed without heaping; bring the boat slowly up over the anchor to ease recovery; slow down as the anchor reaches the bow roller.
Maintenance Programme
| Use of the yacht | Less than 2 months | From 2 up to 6 | More than 6 | Charter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Every 3 months | A – B | A – B | ||
| Every 6 months | A – B | |||
| Every 12 months | A – B – C | C | C | C – D |
| Every 24 months | D | D | E | |
| Every 36 months | D – E | E | E |
- A – Rinse all external surfaces and hidden points with fresh water and remove all salt.
- B – Grease the rotating parts, especially the main shaft threads and clutch cones; check for corrosion and mechanical stress.
- C – Check the motor terminals and test the voltage drop at the terminals.
- D – Replace all gaskets.
- E – Remove the windlass from the deck, clean the salt from under the base and re-seal.
Gipsy Service
- Turn anticlockwise with the handle to remove the gipsy.
- Slide off the upper clutch cone, gipsy and lower clutch cone.
- Wash with running water, never a pressure washer, and check for corrosion or stress.
- Reassemble in reverse order, greasing threads and moving parts.
Disconnect power before any maintenance. Skipping the programme voids the warranty.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible causes | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Windlass does not run when a control is operated | Protection switch OFF; no voltage; control box, control or motor failure | Switch ON; check battery charge and connections; check/replace control box or control; measure motor voltage, if OK clean the brushes, otherwise replace the motor |
| Chain jams frequently | Locker not deep enough for the chain carried; chain does not suit the gipsy; chain not calibrated | Fit the windlass over the deepest point of the locker or carry less chain; change the gipsy; replace chain that is out of tolerance |
| Windlass turns slowly | Cable section too small; deck faces not parallel; bad connections; dirty brushes; water in the motor | Increase cable section; shim the faces parallel; check connections; clean brushes; replace the motor |
| Motor runs, shaft does not turn UP or DOWN | Worn or broken wormwheel/worm teeth; broken motor spindle | (Service) remove the windlass, replace the broken parts and check no fragments got into the oil circuit; replace the motor and check no broken piece is left in the worm bore. Replace gaskets, screws, keys, circlips and oil at the same time |
| Motor runs, shaft turns UP but not DOWN | The emergency mechanism engages: tangled chain in the locker, poor chain (burrs, zinc), chain stowed in a block, worn emergency spring, or stripper fouling the gipsy | Fit a swivel joint after the anchor; inspect and free the chain link by link; lower all the chain in deep water and recover it with the windlass; (service) replace the spring; reposition or replace the stripper. The emergency mechanism can be locked only with the owner's authorisation: this removes the emergency function |
| Motor runs but the drum will not warp | Drum used the wrong way, so the emergency mechanism engages | Warp with the main shaft turning in the same direction as the gipsy when it recovers chain |
| Motor and shaft run, gipsy stays still with the brake band loose | Gipsy not closed on the clutch cones; clutch or gipsy cones deformed | Check clutch tightening, measure for deformation, shim if needed and replace damaged parts; replace the clutch and/or gipsy |
| Shaft runs out of line with the gipsy and/or drum | Shaft bent by excessive load | Check the windlass is used within its specification; (service) replace the shaft plus worn parts, gaskets, circlips, keys and oil |
| Oil leak between motor and gearbox | Loose motor coupling makes the worm run irregularly and the seal leaks | (Service) find why the fixings loosened, check the spindle and worm bore for ovality and repair on the bench; check for oil in the motor; replace gaskets, keys, circlips, screws, oil and worn parts |
| Shaft and studs too short for the gearbox at installation | Wrong deck thickness given when ordering | If the keyed shaft engages the gearbox along its full length, adapt the studs; otherwise order a longer shaft |
| Runs slowly and sometimes trips the breaker | Cable section, connections, brushes, water in the motor, faces not parallel, oil loss, motor labouring, or works in one direction only | Increase cable section; check connections; clean brushes; replace the motor; restore parallel faces; (service) inspect gearbox and motor; check 12/24 V across B2–C and B3–C on the control box with each button pressed, and replace the control box if a relay does not work |
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