Selden CXr 15, CXr 25 & CXr 45 — Owner's Manual

Attachment

• Head: the halyard must enter the mast clear of other halyards and stays (extra sheave box or lead if needed). A 2:1 halyard needs a dead-end bracket and makes cable tension easier.
• Tack: in front of the forestay, as far forward as possible (fixed or retractable bowsprit). Fixed point: must take load F and keep the furler rotationally fixed – no strop. 2:1 tack line: easier luff tension; use a 2:1 snap shackle lead or tack block, aim for an angle of 30° or more. Never a 1:1 tack line.

System Set-Up

1. Feed the endless line in between line guide and drum, drop part of it into the small opening on the drum perimeter and turn the drum until it lies round the whole drum (stripper can stay on).
2. Single-cam block: remove the screws, fit the line, reassemble with the bushing inside the sheave. Twin-cam block: instruction 597-003-E.
3. Line guard: loosen the clamp screw 1-2 turns, turn to the desired exit angle, keep it pushed up and tighten firmly.
4. Bottom-up sails: connect unit and halyard swivel to the end terminals (press release button, pull pin, connect, push pin until it locks, check with the string). Top-down: tack swivel to the AT-cable (or nail terminal), lash the tack to the tack ring (lashing normally 0,3-0,5m, through the ring with "AFT" aft), lash the head to the top terminal.
5. Fix the unit so it cannot twist; lead the furling line aft (double fairleads help), keep two lead blocks well apart; sheets aft (barber hauls help); hoist with a lot of halyard tension.

Do not exceed the safe working load of the system and mast components. A short furling line pulled upward by the bowman increases friction and can damage the furler.

Unfurling & Furling

1. Check luff tension; on a broad reach head up slightly.
2. Pull lightly on the leeward sheet (windward sheet free).
3. Give the furling line a distinct pull on the furl-out part to unlock the ratchet, then unfurl with the sheet; the sheet must always be the main unfurling force (pulling the line can furl the sail backwards).
4. Furling: bear away slightly, pull the furl-in part through its cam block while the other part runs free, keep slight sheet tension for an even roll, then a few extra turns so the sheets wrap the sail.

Racing without ratchet: remove the top cover (three hex screws) and fit the four ratchet prevention plugs in their slots; remove them to re-engage.

Troubleshooting

Maintenance

• Flush furling unit, halyard swivel and tack swivel with fresh water after use – no high pressure.
• Yearly: remove the top cover with a hex key through the access hole under the line guard (spin the drum to reach each of the three screws), rinse inside and dry, replace damaged parts, spray a lubricant (WD-40™ or similar) through the four hub openings – no grease (it clogs the pawls); refit without over-tightening.
• Warranty: five (5) years.

Replacing Parts

1. Remove the line stripper and snap shackle.
2. Loosen the line-guard clamp screw 1-2 turns and push the line guard down.
3. Remove the retaining ring with a small screwdriver and pull the ratchet assembly down.
4. Remove the three hex screws and the top cover.
5. Remove the centering spring with pliers and separate hub and line driver; note the spring orientation (ends round all four screw heads).
6. Replace parts, spray-lubricate (no grease) and reassemble in reverse: both keys in the shaft before the ratchet assembly, new retaining ring, line guard pushed up and clamp screw tight.